Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,377 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

An absolute classic if not for the first 60 feet of questionable climbing. Head left around the corner from the Great Dihedral and look for a beautiful left facing dihedral starting 60 feet off the ground.

P1. After some dubious, although easy climbing on trap rock, a hollow flake guards the dihedral above (be EXTREMELY carful here - PG13 for rock quality). Pitch 1 finishes up the dihedral, past a fixed cam, and traverses left to a belay stance and fixed anchor. 5.10a, 110 feet

P2 Traverse back right and tackle the overhanging crack on the right wall. Stemming and an occasional hold in the dihedral keep the climbing at a reasonable grade. 5.10b, 100 feet

Location

To the left of the Great Dihedral, look for a left facing dihedral that starts 60 feet up the face. At the time, there was a fixed orange cam in the first pitch dihedral.

Descent: Rap the route with a single 60m. The bottom rap is ~110 feet. I have seen one 60m rope make it down on rope stretch, but with another 60m we had to rap down and to the left where the ground rises higher against the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack with fixed anchors on top of both pitches.

Photos

Derek Doucet
  5.10b
Derek Doucet  
  5.10b
Just did this route again for the first time in probably 15 years, and was surprised to find the bolt on p1. Has it always been there, or was it added at some point? I ask because I have no recollection of any fixed gear from my previous ascent, but it's been awhile.

Great route, by the way! Nov 29, 2011
Jim Lawyer    
 
You find out info here here.

"A block fell from P1 of The Snatch [route 75, page 61] leaving a blank section and some dangerous choss. This has been cleaned up and, with the addition of a bolt, is now an excellent, safe pitch. The grade has not changed." Dec 1, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.10b
Derek Doucet  
  5.10b
Thanks, Jim. Hope you're enjoying things down under... Mar 7, 2012
Each pitch on this route can be comfortably rapped with a single 70m. Sep 21, 2015