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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: 2003 Meschinelli, Johnston, Munn, Eisinger
Page Views: 261 total, 3/month
Shared By: Matt Salter on Jun 21, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

The first pitch is very popular, but unfortunately, the rest is a mystery to most. If the top pitch of this otherwise fun climb would clean up, it might be worthy of 4 stars. Like most or the other routes on the Pilgrim Wall, three very different pitches, with an exposed, final hanging corner. DO IT!

P1: Up the face, trending right past many bolts, aiming for a crack. Follow the crack (5.7) up to a beautiful ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10c

P2: Move left off the belay into a left facing corner with a crack. Follow the crack and face up to a lone bolt below another left facing shallow corner. Protect well with smallish gear, make some pumpy moves, and gain a small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9+

P3: Beautiful moves up and right, passing bolts, aiming for the hanging corner above. Make a hard entry move into the corner, and then stem and face climb your way up the corner (dirty), with small stoppers as protection, to a grassy ledge with another 2 bolt anchor. 5.10c

Location

The leftmost bolted face on the Pilgrim Wall, about 5 feet right of the dirty start to It Don't Come Easy.

Protection

Bolts and a full rack up to a #2 Camalot. RP's advisable also.

Photos

Something (or some things) must of broke on the first pitch? maybe 11a, not 10c as said in the book. I also did this pitch a couple times, even on TR to see what I was missing.. it's not 10c. Overall the route is great, P3 is really fun. Aug 22, 2016
SethG  
I think the description above is accurate. The route is dirty. It is also good.

The first pitch is the hardest "5.10" I've ever come across. It follows a narrow clean path on a dirty face. Some of the holds are dirty. Pitch two is great. It follows a natural line, is well protected and is clean. Pitch three is quite dirty in the corner and I was not happy about the rock quality. I tried to get nuts above the bolt but I thought the dirty crumbly rock was suspect. It is an exciting, fun pitch. Jun 26, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Throw all of your friends who think they can climb 5.10 on this one! May 26, 2015
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10d
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10d
Got on the first pitch of this today, and, like the aforementioned comment by Derek, I find this pitch extremely stout in the grade (read: add a letter grade, or two), despite having climbed it many times. Nevertheless, it is fun as hell! Jul 13, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.10c
Derek Doucet  
  5.10c
A few thoughts after a couple of trips up this fine route, including one very recent ascent:

-P1 is very solid in the grade. I routinely lead considerably harder, really enjoy technical, thin face, and find this pitch rather difficult.

-P2 is also very fun, but has some large, quite hollow blocks which one climbs over and through down low, and in which it is tempting to protect. Any gear in this rock should be considered questionable. The moves past the 2 bolts are interesting and pleasant. There is some suspect rock on the steeper finishing section of the pitch as well, and the pro through this section is not especially straightforward. 5.9+ PG seems fair. Definitely not a pitch to stick your fledgling 5.9 leader on.

-P3 is excellent, protects well, and as of 2 days ago, is reasonably clean. All the holds one needs are clean, in any case.

A great route.

Rack: Single set from blue Mastercam to #1 Camalot; single set of small to medium wires, including some RPs; draws and slings; 1 60m cord. Jun 12, 2012
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
This is awesome route. Do NOT let the description deter you from P2 & P3. I did this soon after it was first bolted, and did not think in was dirty. Besides, if you want clean go to Gunks. The approach and entry into the final corner on P3 is incredible. IMO, this IS a 4 star route. Jul 18, 2011