Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Main Face
|
7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Autumn Flare T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Certified Raw T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Crux Capacitor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Deuteronomy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Easy Street T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Gun Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Home Run Derby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Homecoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
In Vivo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Junior Varsity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Karmic Kickback T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Keep Off Flake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Knights in Armor (P2) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Macrobiotic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Mogster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
P.T. Pillar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Pearly Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Psalm 32 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Remembering Youth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Sea of seams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Sharpening the Blade T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
|
|
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | FFA: Hobey Walker, Dave Furman Sep.1996 |
| Page Views: | 1,350 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Livingston on Sep 22, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
A sweet line up one of the coolest faces in the East. Shark Week follows an excellent crack system up aretes, steep slabs, and a huge roof. The climbing is well protected by Poke-O standards, technical, and a ton of fun. As of this writing, the climb is definitely a bit dirty, but everything is solid and clean where it needs to be. The bolts, though weathered, appear to be in good condition. A good scrubbing (or more ascents!) would make this a truly pleasant outing. Get on it!
P1: Up the nice corner to a small triangular roof. Power out of this and make your way to a seam just right of the arete. Climb this, clipping two pitons on your way up. Reach a good stance below a blank bulge (2 bolts, crux) and bust a reachy boulder problem to a nice finger crack. Bolted anchor at poor stance on the left. .11c 90'
P2: Step back into the finger crack for 20', then move left passing a bolt to another finger crack and follow this through a bush to a bolt on a steep slab. Crimp and balance your way up a tricky face passing two more bolts, to a final funky move right onto a sloping ledge. Scramble up to nice ledge and a bolted anchor. .10d 90'
P3: Easier cracks head up to a wedged block beneath an imposing roof, passing two bolts. Then, traverse under roof with good hands and feet (3 bolts), admiring the huge spiders dangling above your head. Make an exposed step left around the arete to a nice small ledge and bolted anchor. .8 40'
P4: Follow a pleasant, low angle crack to a bolted anchor at a small ledge beneath a thin crack in a headwall. .7 100'
P5: Find a way to the first bolt on the headwall, then establish yourself in an excellent finger crack. Climb this until it disappears and commit on smeary moves over small gear to reach a bolt. Bust a a couple more moves above the bolt then scramble up to slung tree at the top. .11a 100'
( Fastest Shark, 5.10d, is an excellent and pumpy alternate start to Shark Week - Start up the Fastest Gun corner, traverse right under the roof above and then up to the finger crack to the bolted anchor as described in Shark Week's P1 description)
Descent: Rap with two 60m ropes. A 70m would probably work if not doing the last pitch (which would be a shame). One could also walk climbers left to the gamesmanship rap line.
2 Comments