Type: Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 5 pitches
FA: FFA: Hobey Walker, Dave Furman Sep.1996
Page Views: 1,311 total · 23/month
Shared By: Trevor Livingston on Sep 22, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A sweet line up one of the coolest faces in the East. Shark Week follows an excellent crack system up aretes, steep slabs, and a huge roof. The climbing is well protected by Poke-O standards, technical, and a ton of fun. As of this writing, the climb is definitely a bit dirty, but everything is solid and clean where it needs to be. The bolts, though weathered, appear to be in good condition. A good scrubbing (or more ascents!) would make this a truly pleasant outing. Get on it!

P1: Up the nice corner to a small triangular roof. Power out of this and make your way to a seam just right of the arete. Climb this, clipping two pitons on your way up. Reach a good stance below a blank bulge (2 bolts, crux) and bust a reachy boulder problem to a nice finger crack. Bolted anchor at poor stance on the left. .11c 90'

P2: Step back into the finger crack for 20', then move left passing a bolt to another finger crack and follow this through a bush to a bolt on a steep slab. Crimp and balance your way up a tricky face passing two more bolts, to a final funky move right onto a sloping ledge. Scramble up to nice ledge and a bolted anchor. .10d 90'

P3: Easier cracks head up to a wedged block beneath an imposing roof, passing two bolts. Then, traverse under roof with good hands and feet (3 bolts), admiring the huge spiders dangling above your head. Make an exposed step left around the arete to a nice small ledge and bolted anchor. .8 40'

P4: Follow a pleasant, low angle crack to a bolted anchor at a small ledge beneath a thin crack in a headwall. .7 100'

P5: Find a way to the first bolt on the headwall, then establish yourself in an excellent finger crack. Climb this until it disappears and commit on smeary moves over small gear to reach a bolt. Bust a a couple more moves above the bolt then scramble up to slung tree at the top. .11a 100'

( Fastest Shark, 5.10d, is an excellent and pumpy alternate start to Shark Week - Start up the Fastest Gun corner, traverse right under the roof above and then up to the finger crack to the bolted anchor as described in Shark Week's P1 description)

Descent: Rap with two 60m ropes. A 70m would probably work if not doing the last pitch (which would be a shame). One could also walk climbers left to the gamesmanship rap line.

Location Suggest change

Right side of the prominent arete/ right facing corner just uphill from the Fastest Gun. Look for a thin seam with two pitons and bolts above.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 3'', doubles in finger size gear and very small cams/RPs (esp. p5). Bolted anchors