Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 144 total · 11/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Sep 18, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

P1: Climb the easy ramp to gain a short, steep crack. Up this(thin 5.9 G) to a ledge. Continue straight up some easy chimney moves to a belay ledge. With good rope management this pitch can be combined with the next.

P2: Continue up the chimney above which has good cracks for gear, and some fun moves towards the top. Belay on a good ledge with trees. 5.8

P3: Follow the thin incipient crack up and just slightly left for about 150'. This pitch is fairly sustained with intricate balancy moves. The gear is small but bomber. Belay at one of two sets of bolts at the base of the large heavily-vegetated dike. 5.9 G/PG

P4: This pitch takes a little imagination to enjoy, because of its dirty/overgrown nature and the blocks toward the end. There is some good climbing nevertheless. From the bolts, climb up and a little left and then back right through bushes and dirty rock. After about 60' the rock get's a little cleaner and less vegetated but becomes more difficult. Aim for a vague R-facing corner above the dike and below the prow that breaks through roofs at the top of the wall. Climb in or near the corner and then up through questionable/scary blocks to a belay stance under the roofs. Here you can see the obvious bolts of the last pitch leading out to the left. 5.9+ PG 190' the way we did it.

P5: A short pitch follows bolts traversing left under the huge roof and around the lip to rap bolts at a stance on the slab. I placed a #1 and yellow alien on this pitch, but I wouldn't say they were necessary. 5.10b 30'

Descent: Rappel with two ropes to the lower of the bolted stances below the dike(bottom of pitch 4.) One more rap just barely makes it to the ground with 2x8.5mm ropes.

Location

Walk down past Fastest Gun. This climb is just left of Raptor's Scream, a bolted line with thin cracks in a steep corner. Ancient of Days starts 30 or so feet left at the base of a slabby Left to Right-rising ramp. This is the lower and lower-angled of two similar features. 

Protection

Generally plentiful and sound protection. Standard rack to #3 with extra little cams and small nuts/RPs.

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