Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||144 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Simon Thompson on Sep 18, 2018|
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
P2: Continue up the chimney above which has good cracks for gear, and some fun moves towards the top. Belay on a good ledge with trees. 5.8
P3: Follow the thin incipient crack up and just slightly left for about 150'. This pitch is fairly sustained with intricate balancy moves. The gear is small but bomber. Belay at one of two sets of bolts at the base of the large heavily-vegetated dike. 5.9 G/PG
P4: This pitch takes a little imagination to enjoy, because of its dirty/overgrown nature and the blocks toward the end. There is some good climbing nevertheless. From the bolts, climb up and a little left and then back right through bushes and dirty rock. After about 60' the rock get's a little cleaner and less vegetated but becomes more difficult. Aim for a vague R-facing corner above the dike and below the prow that breaks through roofs at the top of the wall. Climb in or near the corner and then up through questionable/scary blocks to a belay stance under the roofs. Here you can see the obvious bolts of the last pitch leading out to the left. 5.9+ PG 190' the way we did it.
P5: A short pitch follows bolts traversing left under the huge roof and around the lip to rap bolts at a stance on the slab. I placed a #1 and yellow alien on this pitch, but I wouldn't say they were necessary. 5.10b 30'
Descent: Rappel with two ropes to the lower of the bolted stances below the dike(bottom of pitch 4.) One more rap just barely makes it to the ground with 2x8.5mm ropes.