Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams and Dave Loeks, early 1970s
Page Views: 2,890 total · 21/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007 with updates from Luc-514
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

In just two pitches of climbing, you will be treated to thoughtful face/groove climbing, and some of the most strenuous and technical corner/crack climbing at the grade on the cliff. The second pitch makes this route an instant Dacks classic.

1st Pitch:
Eyeball the bolt that sits about 20 feet up the wall below an incipient crack and groove. "Easy-does-it" climbing up to the bolt, then charge your way for the nice, flat belay ledge. (5.8, 75 feet)

2nd Pitch:
Move out to the right to gain the nice, big flake. Master the demanding flake by using what would seem to be an illogical method of upward progression, then belay off to the left on a nice belay ledge. (5.9+++, 75 feet)

Location

Right of the obvious Thunderhead roof in a black wall with a line of bolts up it (Menace To Sobriety, 10b). The original start to Cirrhosis begins just to the left at a lone bolt about 20 feet off the ground.

Protection

A standard rack stressing the small to medium sizes. Nothing larger than a single #3 Camalot.

Photos

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Joe Mucci
Chattanooga, TN
 
Joe Mucci   Chattanooga, TN
 
The second pitch is fantastic. Probably in my top five favorites at Poko. Best done by linking it up with Menace to Sobriety for a full pitch of stellar climbing. May 27, 2009
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
In the past I've done M2B to P2 of this climb. But this past weekend I did P1 for the first time. Not G by any measure. One #3 steel nut 5ft below the bolt still makes for an R start. The Move from P1 to P2 is quite hard (I lead it in one pitch so the anchor was merely a lone point of protection for me). You miss this mysterious crux if you do M2B first. Jul 18, 2011
Simeon d
Phila, PA
Simeon d   Phila, PA
Just climbed this with Jeff. Thanks. Had a blast. I though pitch one was wonderful, but technically hard for grade. Pitch 2 was amazing. Very sustained movement, mostly linebacking for me. Best rt Ive done in a while. Jul 10, 2018