Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams and Dave Loeks, early 1970s
Page Views: 3,500 total · 23/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

In just two pitches of climbing, you will be treated to thoughtful face/groove climbing, and some of the most strenuous and technical corner/crack climbing at the grade on the cliff. The second pitch makes this route an instant Dacks classic.

1st Pitch:
Eyeball the bolt that sits about 20 feet up the wall below an incipient crack and groove. "Easy-does-it" climbing up to the bolt, then charge your way for the nice, flat belay ledge. (5.8, 75 feet)

2nd Pitch:
Move out to the right to gain the nice, big flake. Master the demanding flake by using what would seem to be an illogical method of upward progression, then belay off to the left on a nice belay ledge. (5.9+++, 75 feet)

Location

Right of the obvious Thunderhead roof in a black wall with a line of bolts up it (Menace To Sobriety, 10b). The original start to Cirrhosis begins just to the left at a lone bolt about 20 feet off the ground.

Protection

A standard rack stressing the small to medium sizes. Nothing larger than a single #3 Camalot.

Photos

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