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Earthly Night
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 13 votes
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R | |
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0 | |
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 | |
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Type: | Sport, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Patrick Munn, Dominic Eisinger-- 2002 |
Page Views: | 4,647 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007 |
Admins: | Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson |
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
One of the new-school lines at Poke-O, and a fine one at that. This fully bolted route is quintessential dihedral climbing bookended by some of the most rewarding slab/arete climbing on the cliff. Avoid this route on sunny, summer days, as the black rock and oven-like quality of the corner can melt shoe rubber and make you go blind!!
Begin the route by climbing up a 10' blocky corner to the beginning of the first pitch. Climb the technical arete protected by 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors on a nice belay ledge (5.9+).
This next pitch is the crux. Leave the belay and climb out left over a small, but steep roof using some high steps, a few hidden holds and some muscle. Continue up the corner past 11 bolts (11b) and an alternate belay ledge to the base of the final pitch ("The Raspberry Pitch") and another set of chain anchors.
If asked, some may say the final pitch is the technical crux of the route despite it being a full number grade easier (10b). Whichever opinion you side with, get ready for some fairly sequential, blunt arete climbing in an airy situation.
Finish the route at set of chain anchors. One 60m rope with three rappels will get you back to the ground.
Begin the route by climbing up a 10' blocky corner to the beginning of the first pitch. Climb the technical arete protected by 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors on a nice belay ledge (5.9+).
This next pitch is the crux. Leave the belay and climb out left over a small, but steep roof using some high steps, a few hidden holds and some muscle. Continue up the corner past 11 bolts (11b) and an alternate belay ledge to the base of the final pitch ("The Raspberry Pitch") and another set of chain anchors.
If asked, some may say the final pitch is the technical crux of the route despite it being a full number grade easier (10b). Whichever opinion you side with, get ready for some fairly sequential, blunt arete climbing in an airy situation.
Finish the route at set of chain anchors. One 60m rope with three rappels will get you back to the ground.
Location
about 500 feet to the right of the Fastest Gun corner is a clearing with three bolted lines (this wall is called "The Pilgrim Wall", and serves up some fine mixed bolt and gear routes from 10a to 11d, the best being a 3-pitch journey called "Pilgrims Progess" at 11c)) that start off the ground. Just beyond these routes to the right is a blocky corner with a bolted arete that starts about 20 feet up. This is the first pitch of Earthly Nights.
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