Type: Trad, 410 ft (124 m), 6 pitches
FA: Patrick Munn and Dominic Eisinger, September 1993
Page Views: 643 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Sep 2, 2019
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

A very high quality and adventurous route that links a series of corner systems on the left side of the Big Wall.  A worthy objective and highly recommended.  The hardware has been updated and the route has recently been recleaned by the FA party.  

P1-Spicy 5.9 face climbing leads to a right facing corner.  Up this to an overlap. Exit left (5.10) to another right facing corner and a belay.

P2-Climb up to a bolt above the belay beneath a small roof.  Crank over the roof (5.11) and into a right facing corner. Continue up past a bolt into an alcove of sorts and climb over another overlap into a left facing corner beneath a roof. Tiptoe out right and pull the roof into a right facing corner. Desperately climb past a bolt to an improbable stance and the belay (11+).  It's best to continue around the corner, clip a bolt, then downclimb and belay from the p2 anchor of Extreme Unction.

P3-Climb the right facing corner, eventually stepping left out on to the face.  Climb through the dike rock to belay out right (5.9).

P4-Climb straight up the face past two bolts to a stance with a third bolt above an overlap. Make a technical traverse left (5.11; pulling harder will get you nowhere) to a left facing corner with a crack. Up the crack through a bulge (5.11) to a stance at a large block. Climb up and right to the belay.

P5-Climb straight up off the belay to a roof.  A funky sequence exits the left side of the roof to the belay.

P6-Face climb a lower angle slab to an anchor. Protection has been added to this pitch by the FA party and it is no longer R (5.9).

Rappel the route with a single rope.

Location

Left side of the Big Wall, below a shallow right facing corner 30 feet up.

Protection

A single rack of cams to 2" (including micro cams) small to medium wires, RPs

Photos

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