Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dennis Luther, Kevin Boyle, Jay Kullman June 30, 2000
Page Views: 1,001 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Feb 26, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Fun, dynamic climbing through some alarmingly hollow rock makes for quite a memorable experience. I recall the pucker effect was fairly high the first time I did this route some years ago.

Located roughly 100 feet left of the huge off-width of Phase III in an dirty alcove.

Climb out (placing an optional small piece of gear before the first bolt can be done, though it's not necessary) of the alcove clipping bolts, and taking care to check each hold while heading left along a right-facing ramp/corner. Gain an awkward rest on a small shelf below a bizarre roof. Clip a bolt then head out over the roof, taking care NOT to pull off any of the wafer-thin flakes you're pulling on. Gain a short crack before the anchor, place a small TCU then gun it to the chains.

Good, right?

Location

100 feet left of the huge Phase III off-width corner in a dirty alcove.

Protection

Bolts, and a few TCUs to fill in the gaps at the beginning and at the end.

Photos

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Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Don't forget about this somewhat obscure route! Its exciting and different - you'll see... Jun 9, 2015
Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10c
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10c
Did this for the first time today, great route, brilliant job of bolting! There is actually a great rest in the alcove before the roof move. The route stays on you right till the chains, would have to say it's a must do.
Similar quality to P1 Casual Observer, and unusual climbing for Poke-O.
Totally safe, get on it. Aug 21, 2016