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Static Cling
5.10c,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 12
votes
FA: Dennis Luther, Kevin Boyle, Jay Kullman June 30, 2000
New York
> Adirondacks
> Lake Champlain…
> Poke-O-Moonshine
> Main Face
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
Fun, dynamic climbing through some alarmingly hollow rock makes for quite a memorable experience. I recall the pucker effect was fairly high the first time I did this route some years ago.
Located roughly 100 feet left of the huge off-width of Phase III in an dirty alcove.
Climb out (placing an optional small piece of gear before the first bolt can be done, though it's not necessary) of the alcove clipping bolts, and taking care to check each hold while heading left along a right-facing ramp/corner. Gain an awkward rest on a small shelf below a bizarre roof. Clip a bolt then head out over the roof, taking care NOT to pull off any of the wafer-thin flakes you're pulling on. Gain a short crack before the anchor, place a small TCU then gun it to the chains.
Good, right?
Location
100 feet left of the huge Phase III off-width corner in a dirty alcove.
Protection
Bolts, and a few TCUs to fill in the gaps at the beginning and at the end.
Orford, NH
Saranac Lake, NY
Similar quality to P1 Casual Observer, and unusual climbing for Poke-O.
Totally safe, get on it. Aug 21, 2016