Avg: 3.4 from 31 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||June 18, 1989, Dennis Luther, Tom Rosencrans|
|Page Views:||4,333 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007|
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
On the far left end of the cliff, about 300 feet to the left of the large apron slab, are several great climbs. Locate the large right-facing off-width of Phase 3. SOAM, climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of it.
Gain the open book, by chimneying up some not-so-demanding rock, then step left around a small roof. Some technical foot work and good, but hidden, horizontal reliefs will get you to the first bolt.
Clip it, then figure out the sequence (it involves a small but positive high left hand and foot combination).
Gain the "bucket" out to your right, and clip another bolt. Milk the small rest, then continue up and into the amazing, overhanging flake system to the chain anchors over the bulge at the top.