Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: June 18, 1989, Dennis Luther, Tom Rosencrans
Page Views: 4,333 total · 28/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Son of a Mother is a new, safe variation on a couple older, more obscure lines at Poke-O. This route is one hell of a find!

On the far left end of the cliff, about 300 feet to the left of the large apron slab, are several great climbs. Locate the large right-facing off-width of Phase 3. SOAM, climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of it.

Gain the open book, by chimneying up some not-so-demanding rock, then step left around a small roof. Some technical foot work and good, but hidden, horizontal reliefs will get you to the first bolt.

Clip it, then figure out the sequence (it involves a small but positive high left hand and foot combination).

Gain the "bucket" out to your right, and clip another bolt. Milk the small rest, then continue up and into the amazing, overhanging flake system to the chain anchors over the bulge at the top.

Location

on the far left end of the cliff is a large slabby apron of rock. To the left of this is a major, right-facing off-width corner (Phase 3). Son of a Mother climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of Phase 3.

Protection

Carry with you a nice size rack with a good selection of small gear (#0 TCU to red Alien, and brass nuts), singles from green to yellow Camalots, and several QDs.

Photos