Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: June 18, 1989, Dennis Luther, Tom Rosencrans
Page Views: 3,696 total · 27/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Son of a Mother is a new, safe variation on a couple older, more obscure lines at Poke-O. This route is one hell of a find!

On the far left end of the cliff, about 300 feet to the left of the large apron slab, are several great climbs. Locate the large right-facing off-width of Phase 3. SOAM, climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of it.

Gain the open book, by chimneying up some not-so-demanding rock, then step left around a small roof. Some technical foot work and good, but hidden, horizontal reliefs will get you to the first bolt.

Clip it, then figure out the sequence (it involves a small but positive high left hand and foot combination).

Gain the "bucket" out to your right, and clip another bolt. Milk the small rest, then continue up and into the amazing, overhanging flake system to the chain anchors over the bulge at the top.

Location

on the far left end of the cliff is a large slabby apron of rock. To the left of this is a major, right-facing off-width corner (Phase 3). Son of a Mother climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of Phase 3.

Protection

Carry with you a nice size rack with a good selection of small gear (#0 TCU to red Alien, and brass nuts), singles from green to yellow Camalots, and several QDs.

Photos

Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Very nice pitch. One or two move wonder. An approachable, well protected 5.10 for Poke-O. Chris, I appreciate all your work on this site, but you sometimes give a lot of detailed move beta, which seems a little overkill. Figuring out climbing moves on your own and figuring out how to protect them is one of the rewarding aspects of climbing. I think route descriptions should allow one to find and climb a route safely but not reveal too much detail that would take away the sense of adventure and discovery that accompanies onsighting a route. I guess it is a fine balance with grey areas.... Nov 11, 2011
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.10b/c
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.10b/c
So sorry to disappoint you, Nick. The intention of MP.com is to give first-person encounters of the routes we climb. Unfortunately, this leaves the door open to such things as intentional, or non-intentional, route beta. I would say, if you're concerned about the potential for onsight spoilers, read MP descriptions post send! Happy climbing! Nov 11, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Agreed with Chris: MP is not the place to go for poor route descriptions and vague fuzzy beta. The whole point of the website is to give more information on routes that your typical out-of-date guidebook neglected to tell you including specific beta for those who want it. Up to you if you want to read it or not... May 13, 2012
I think its more of an individual preference, when I climbed this route by the time I got passed the second bolt I was flamed as the gates of hell, fight the pump to the top was great but only when I hit the chains. I had not read this discription but if I did I would have been aware of the overhanging nature of the top 1/3 of the route, would have I been equally as pumped? The only thing certain is that every person who climbs this route with have their own experience. May 29, 2012
Ryan Fletcher
Canada
Ryan Fletcher   Canada
I have to agree with Chris as well. You are of your own free will to read or not to read any given route description that is put up on here. I think the more detail the better for those who are looking for it. Those who want a more "pure" experience of adventure should just simply not read the route descriptions. Jul 29, 2015