Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allen, Drew Allen
Page Views: 1,946 total · 17/month
Shared By: thomas chervenak on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

I can't speak for pitch 3(12R),but pitch 1 of this route using the 11c variation is incredible. The variation bypasses what looks like a arduous indirect line by combining both pitches via a bolted bulge,into a long, direct, and very demanding pitch. A great mix of steep finger cracks, and balancy face climbing at the bolts makes this an absolute classic. The fingercrack above the bulge is relentless.

Location

Southern Hospitality is located just down hill of Gamesmanship. If you start walking uphill you've gone too far. Two ropes to get down. Uncomfortable belay.

Protection

Doubles in green, yellow, and red aliens(or purple BD's) are helpful as are plenty of nuts.

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Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11d
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11d
You can lower/rap with a 60 meter rope. Watch for the end(s) of the rope. If you were to belay at the top of the pitch I don't think it would be particularly uncomfortable. You'll want some .75 and red camalots up higher (maybe a #2 as well, I don't remember).

Amazing route with tricky cruxes. Jun 7, 2010
Derek Doucet
  5.11d
Derek Doucet  
  5.11d
One word: Stout. Jun 10, 2010
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11d
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11d
After climbing this for the second time this year I think this is closer to 11+. There are multiple 5.11 cruxes on this line. I think it's harder than p1 of Psalm 32 which gets a rating of 12a. Oct 22, 2010
Derek Doucet
  5.11d
Derek Doucet  
  5.11d
^^Agreed. IMO, P1 of Psalm 32 is probably .11b (at most). P1 of Southern Hospitality feels like solid .11+ to me. Both pitches are superb whatever the grade! Feb 17, 2011
Matt Salter
  5.11d
Matt Salter  
  5.11d
I agree with the above; this is WAY harder then the first pitch of Psalm 32. Many cruxes, crappy, slippery feet, and no great rests.
Awesome. Jun 21, 2011