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Puppies on Edge

5.6, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 38 votes
FA: Patrick Purcell, Andy Morcillino Sept. 17, 1990
New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues DetailsDrop down

Description

With plentiful gear opportunities, sound rock quality and exciting moves, Puppies on Edge is one of the most accessible and enjoyable routes at the grade (and there aren't many!) at Poke-O.

POE starts up the large left-facing corner, then breaks diagonally right across the face to the arete. Continue up, then around the arete to the lower-angled face above. Finish at the fixed anchor on the comfortable ledge.

Location

On the far left end of Poke-O at a massive left-facing corner.

Protection

A single rack up to a red Camalot, plus some quickdraws is all that is needed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up at Puppies, which breaks right out of the corner on bolts.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at Puppies, which breaks right out of the corner on bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Although the fun crux moves are short-lived, this is a worthwhile climb. As Chris mentioned, it is one of very few easy climbs at the cliff. A fun alternative if you don't have the balls to hop on Gamesmanship or Fastest Gun, which is why I climbed it. Nov 8, 2011
Mike McLean
  5.5
[Hide Comment] I just boldly gave this a 5.5. I've been climbing a LOT of the easy climbs in the Dacks for the last 2 seasons and I can't possibly say that this is on the same level as, for example, CWI. It is much easier. Another comparison; I would put the the third pitch of Catharsis (5.5) at about as hard (if not harder).

The traverse (which is the crux), is by no means difficult; but it's friggin fun! I would have taken 50 feet more of that!

The first bolt is placed perfectly. Exactly where you'd want it. Jul 9, 2012