To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Picture two motivated and very talented young climbers scouring the walls of Redgarden in search of a first ascent...and then seeing this line. Just like kids in a candy store.
The D-G climbs a plumbline between Vertigo and Super Slab and offers a nice mix of climbing. The following description includes the variation called Dubious Graffiti, a direct middle pitch that adds a touch more 5.11 and is more in character with the original difficult pitches.
The route is best approached by climbing the Lower Ramp, then going left below the base of Super Slab across an exposed traverse to an island ledge. This involves a very exposed move or two of low-end 5th-class climbing, so a rope is advised.
P1 (5.11a): Just above the island ledge climb a steep, clean wall with a thin crack. There often is a resident fixed nut at the crux that helps significantly. Harder for us fat-fingered types. At the top of the crack step left (orignal D-G goes right to the top of pitch one Super Slab), pull a small overhang at a bolt, then back right and belay (or with a 70m rope, continue).
P2: (5.11a with 5.8s): Now climb the arete to the right and clip a bolt. Do a difficult move on the arete, then punch straight up past another bolt and some fixed pins all the way to the base of the Super Slab crux pitch and belay. This is an excellent pitch
P3 (5.11c with 5.10a s): Move straight left from the belay, then up (runout) to clip the first of a line of widely-spaced bolts. The climbing is classic Eldo thin face, with good edges and nice moves. The actual crux involves a strange stand-up from a good undercling that is easy in retrospect but difficult to initiate. The climbing eases after this move, with spectacular views left to Vertigo, but is still steep and a bit runout--but positive. Towards the top move up and right, weaving your way through a bulging section. Good pitch, new bolts, beautiful stone.
Now either descend the raps to the west, or the Upper Ramp to the raps below the Naked Edge, or better, continue with an Upper Wall route.
Protection
The typical Eldo stuff, including RPs and TCUs. The upper pitch is bolt protected, but the bolts are widely spaced.
I think this is one of the best route I have done in the canyon. I like it almost as much as The Naked Edge. I don't think it gets done nearly as much. Although it has been nearly five years since I have done the route I don't remember the first pitch being quite as hard as 11c. Steve is right on with the gear though, a couple of TCUs will give you all the malcomb you need on the finger crack first pitch.The last pitch is completely spectacular.
I heard a rumor that if a climber fell in a particular spot on the 1st pitch that there was rope-cut potential over a sharp edge. Anyone care to confirm?
If you are doing the "Dubious Graffiti" middle pitch from top of pitch 1 Superslab, the bolt is clipped around the sharp arete on the left, and you climb on the right. If you fall the rope could get cut, but you'd have to be really unlucky.
Instead of going right after the crux on Pitch 1, a nice alternative is to go slightly left, clip a bolt above the roof, pull the roof (maybe 11a) and belay on the small ledge just above. You also don't have to worry so much about the rope cutting over the arete on the next pitch if you go this way. It also makes for a more independant line.Great Route!
I agree with Jason: the left option through the roof after the 1st pitch crux is more in keeping with the character of the climb (i.e. avoiding the belay at the top of Super Slab pitch 1). Better yet, instead of setting a belay after pulling the roof, continue up past the bolt protecting the next 5.11 section on the arete. Once past this section conitnue up to a good belay ledge, which is actually the top of pitch 2 of Super Slab. There may be a bit of rope drag if you started the climb from the base of Super Slab... this can be remedied by moving the starting belay to the flat spot directly below the first pitch of D-G.
Incredible climb! Best to warm up by climbing Suparete to the top of the lower ramp.
There's a pretty good beta photo under Mickey Mouse Nailup that shows the upper 2 pitches Doub Griffith/Dubious Graffiti very clearly--it more or less falls the sun/shadow line on the right side of the photo.
If, after the short first pitch, your intent is to climb Dubious Graffiti, it is best to forego the belay on the small ledge above the roof and continue to the good ledge system at the base of the final pitch. The extended pitch is about 150' of fabulous climbing with many 11 crux sections.
IMHO, the best route in Eldo! Spectacular position and exposure, and plenty of variety make this one wild ride. Although there is plenty of spice throughout, the harder portions are all well protected and I think the "s" would pertain to only 5.9 or perhaps up to 10b sections. If you can climb 11b or c, I don't think the serious rating would be a problem. Also, unless you are way honed, a good solid warm up is highly recommended since the first pitch may present a flash pump challenge otherwise. Very nice route description and I strongly concur with the Psycho Pigeon continuation!
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Mar 6, 2006 rating: 5.11c R
At the 3rd bolt on the final pitch, you can follow a natural weakness about 3ft to the right of the bolt line. The smallest ball nuts and a green Alien will protect this section. You can then traverse back to the 4th bolt (which is at your feet) and continue with the regular line. It would difficult to clip the 4th bolt, so place gear instead.
I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 1, 2007 rating: 5.11c
No question about it. This is one of the best climbs around. Spectacular from start to finish! The last pitch is truly amazing. Great movement and position with just enough spice to get your pulse racing. I could climb this route everyday for a month and never get bored. Awesome day Guy!
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Apr 1, 2007
For what it's worth, Eric Doub is still in the Boulder area. His north Boulder home is "net-zero" energy and rated the most energy efficient home in the state of Colorado.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 2, 2007 rating: 5.11c
As a matter of fact, we passed Eric on the way out yesterday after climbing DG. Cool
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado May 18, 2007
Just FYI; There is a 5.10'ish rising traverse that starts from the first bolt on the third pitch and joins Super Slab as it turns the roof.
The dubious flake above the crux of P1 is completely loose. I should have pulled it off, it would have taken just a little tug. It's about 3 feet tall and quite capable of killing you. Judging by the chalk on it, it has been more secure in the past. As it sits now, it will hold no weight, out or down. Be careful.
wcurudy - it most definitely is. Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route.
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO Mar 2, 2009 rating: 5.11b PG13
Great route, with a bunch of cool possibilities for fun link-ups. We did Bob's "Astroman of Eldo" link-up of Superarete->DG->Mellow Yellow. 5 consecutive pitches of quality 5.11! I do agree with one of the above comments about the "3rd" pitch (it's easy to combine p1&2 and do the whole route in 2 pitches). On the last pitch, if one follows the line of least resistance at the 3rd bolt, it will take you up and right all the way to Super slab. I went this way, placing 2 small cams, and ended up about even with the 4th bolt and unable to traverse back "on-route". I ended up traversing back a bit higher and rejoining DG at its 5th bolt. I think this variation avoids the 11c crux of the pitch, making it more like 11a/b. So I guess this means that the crux of DG is a bit contrived, but it looked good so I'll have to try to go the true way next time. -Scott
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Mar 2, 2009 rating: 5.11b/c
Scott, nice job and what a great day to be up there. Yall' did "Bob's Astroman of Eldo", did you guys really think the Mellow Yellow part of the link up was still 5.11 tho? That would be proud!
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