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The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.
Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.
53 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face:
Sunburst Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
The Sting 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Gamesmanship 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Cirrhosis 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
The Great Dihedral 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Phase III 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Bloody Mary 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Scallion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Son of Slime 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
The Fastest Gun 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Cooney-Norton 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 320'
Maestro 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Menace To Sobriety 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Son of a Mother 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Cosmopolitan Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Casual Observer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Macho 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Earthly Night 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 270'
Southern Hospitality p1 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Pilgrim's Progress 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Featured Route For Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Son of a Mother 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Son of a Mother is a new, safe variation on a couple older, more obscure lines at Poke-O. This route is one hell of a find!On the far left end of the cliff, about 300 feet to the left of the large apron slab, are several great climbs. Locate the large right-facing off-width of Phase 3. SOAM, climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of it. Gain the open book, by chimneying up some not-so-demanding rock, then step left around a small roof. Some technical foot work and good, but hi...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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