Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>
The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.
And that is just the rock, don't get me started about the ice. Check out Don Mellor's guidebook Adirondack Rock and Ice for route descriptions and look for Jeremy Haas and Jim Lawyer's new Adirondack Rock Climbing Guidebook due to hit the shelves soon.
Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
59 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face:
The Sting 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Bloody Mary 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Cirrhosis 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Phase III 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Scallion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
The Snatch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
C-Tips 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 100'
Maestro 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Featured Route For Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
The Great Dihedral 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
: ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
The obvious right facing dihedral that starts about 100 ft. off the ground. P1 starts by climbing cracks and blocks to a belay below the roof that is the base of the corner 5.8 (an uninteresting pitch) 100 ft. P2 climb up from the belay into the roof/chimney and then make a weird move back down and to the right to get established in the corner. Climb the beautiful dihedral (fingers, hands, stemming, a little OW ) for 150 ft. Maybe the best 5.9 pitch in the Adirondacks with excellent pro. P3 look...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
By Jim Lawyer
Aug 5, 2010
Freedom Flight -- there's a large crop of poison ivy about halfway across the traverse. There are no cracks above or below the patch, so it's impossible to keep the ropes out of it. Good luck!
By Mike McLean
Jul 13, 2012
As far as parking goes, I was there this week and found no self-payment box, probably because it's all closed down. People were parked right on the street next to the campground entrance, so I did the same without being ticketed.
By Jim Lawyer
Jul 14, 2012
We've been driving right into the old campground and parking anywhere. That way you can park in the shade.
The self-payment box was only relevant when the campground was in operation and climbers were using the facilities (toilet and water). With the campground closed, this is no longer an issue.
Jun 11, 2016
Ancient of days June 10th 2016
P4 Belay Station
The 3 pitons that form the rap station cannot be used as a rap station, unless u leave webbing, slings and rings.
So you might want to bring extra sling to rebuild a rap station.
P5 Rap/belay station
There webbing and slings should be replaced, as they are old, dry, crispy and scarry to rap off from.