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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch T,S 
Air Male T,S 
Arch Crack T,S 
Bastard T 
Bloody Mary T 
Borderline T 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) T 
C-Tips S 
Casual Observer T,S 
Certified Raw T 
Chik'n Garbonzo T 
Cirrhosis T 
Cooney-Norton T 
Cosmopolitan Wall T 
Earthly Night S 
Fastest Gun, The T 
Firing Line T 
FM, The T 
Freedom Flight T 
Gamesmanship T 
Grapes of Wrath T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Green Onion T 
Group Therapy T 
Hang 'Em High T,S 
It Don't Come Easy T 
Junior Varsity T 
La Spirale T 
Ladder T 
Lost Chance aka The Natural  T 
Macho T,S 
Maestro T 
Mayflower T 
Menace To Sobriety S 
Morning Star T 
P.T. Pillar T 
Pandemonium T 
Paralysis T 
Phase III T 
Pilgrim's Progress T 
Pillar T 
Psalm 32 T,S 
Psychosis T 
Puppies on Edge T 
Ragtime T 
Raptor's Scream S 
Rapture, The T,S 
Salad Days S 
Scallion T 
Smear Campaign T 
Snake Slide T 
Snake, The T 
Snatch, The T 
Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
Southern Hospitality p1 T 
Static Cling T,S 
Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 
Varsity T 

Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.316, -73.9215 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,851
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: gilp on Sep 9, 2006
Forecast:
Today

69° | 35°
Wednesday

64° | 47°
Thursday

61° | 48°
Friday

62° | 50°
Saturday

63° | 48°
Sunday

63° | 46°
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BETA PHOTO: Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.

    And that is just the rock, don't get me started about the ice. Check out Don Mellor's guidebook Adirondack Rock and Ice for route descriptions and look for Jeremy Haas and Jim Lawyer's new Adirondack Rock Climbing Guidebook due to hit the shelves soon.

    Getting There 

    Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 5.6 miles from here

    60 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',8],['5.9',7],['5.10',22],['5.11',12],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face:
    Gamesmanship   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
    The Sting   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Cirrhosis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Bloody Mary   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
    The Great Dihedral   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
    Phase III   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Scallion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    The Fastest Gun   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
    It Don't Come Easy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Cooney-Norton   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
    Freedom Flight   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 420'   
    Menace To Sobriety   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Son of a Mother   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Cosmopolitan Wall   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
    C-Tips   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 100'   
    Maestro   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Casual Observer   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Earthly Night   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 270'   
    Southern Hospitality p1   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Pilgrim's Progress   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

    Featured Route For Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bloody no hands rest.

    Bloody Mary 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
    Paralyzing positioning, sustained climbing, and impeccable rock make this route one of Poke-O's finest vertical jaunts. As you climb, remind yourself that for 15 years, this route stood as the hardest climb in the Adirondacks. Pitch 1:Begin roughly 100 feet to the right and uphill from Gamesmanship, and roughly 100 feet to the left of The Fastest Gun. Spot the curving dihedral high on the route (the 2nd pitch), this is what you are aiming for. Climb the broken corner and hand cracks to the l...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

    Comments on Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By burlap submariner
    May 22, 2011
    Can u still camp @ the DEC campground @ the base?
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    May 24, 2011
    Burlap,

    See the following two threads with info about camping...

    mountainproject.com/v/poke-o-m...
    mountainproject.com/v/2011-adi...
    By burlap submariner
    May 24, 2011
    Thanks for the links greg, very helpful.
    By Mike McLean
    Jul 13, 2012
    As far as parking goes, I was there this week and found no self-payment box, probably because it's all closed down. People were parked right on the street next to the campground entrance, so I did the same without being ticketed.
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jul 14, 2012
    We've been driving right into the old campground and parking anywhere. That way you can park in the shade.

    The self-payment box was only relevant when the campground was in operation and climbers were using the facilities (toilet and water). With the campground closed, this is no longer an issue.
    By beaubineau
    Jun 11, 2016
    Ancient of days June 10th 2016

    P4 Belay Station
    The 3 pitons that form the rap station cannot be used as a rap station, unless u leave webbing, slings and rings.
    So you might want to bring extra sling to rebuild a rap station.

    P5 Rap/belay station
    There webbing and slings should be replaced, as they are old, dry, crispy and scarry to rap off from.

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