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Franky Lapitino > Comments
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1 day ago
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Video of Urban Surfer: youtube.com/watch?v=Nuzyz5D…
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Feb 3, 2026
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Cool directional hold face climbing. Full on until you hit the lip.
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Dec 23, 2025
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While I do appreciate seeing the crag “filled out” with all established route listings, I’d much rather wai…
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Dec 17, 2025
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Short film on this climb including gear beta and interview with Scott Stevenson: youtu.be/ZOdeMwfv_4k?si=…
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Nov 3, 2025
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This really should be "the line" imo. I find the early exit crux of the original High Grade to be unintuiti…
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Oct 13, 2025
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I would always stop and touch those holds when passing the boulder on the trail. Glad someone finally made…
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Jul 29, 2025
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For being one of the most iconic boulders in the world I was expecting it to be extremely polished. To my s…
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Jul 14, 2025
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Make sure you pad down and left more than you'd think. If you come up short to the lip you don't really fal…
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May 9, 2025
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In my opinion the section from the glued on crimp you clip off of to the rest stance felt like hard V8 on i…
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May 1, 2025
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It got 3 more ascents last fall! Awesome to see it finally getting the attention it deserves.
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Apr 24, 2025
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Quite often I see people stick clip the 2nd bolt without any thought to what will happen if they drop any o…
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Apr 21, 2025
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This one feels a lot like Plate Tectonics at NWT, but with better rock. Recommended!
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Apr 14, 2025
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I climbed this yesterday using similar beta to what Lee described, though I think I climbed up one more mov…
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Mar 31, 2025
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youtube.com/watch?v=JRCeQ9o…
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Mar 31, 2025
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The wide compression start is really cool. I started right hand on the seam and had to stack pads to do so.…
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Mar 12, 2025
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There’s a fun lower variation that starts down and right with left hand near the bottom of the arch feature…
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Jan 5, 2025
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Not sure how people are giving V8 for this one? Seems like the original grade was around V6 (see “Unnamed”…
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Jan 5, 2025
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I climbed this sit starting with right hand in the circular crimp and used a big foot out left to make a ha…
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Jan 5, 2025
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I didn't use the slopey rails out right behind the tree. After the hard opening moves to the good crimp up…
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Dec 15, 2024
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Technique probably won’t help you if you’re under 5’10 but a good dose of power and willingness to rip skin…
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Dec 13, 2024
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Great movement and a good test of power endurance with a bunch of core sapping moves leading up to a crux a…
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Nov 21, 2024
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Climbs great with Will's kneebar beta. Looks like a slight turd from the ground but this route is action pa…
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Oct 29, 2024
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Incredible variety and insanely physical climbing on this one. Climbs like a hard trad route. Unless you’re…
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Oct 10, 2024
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I sent this seemingly long forgotten route yesterday. I was informed by Joe T that this may have actually b…
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Sep 8, 2024
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40 feet of climbing that feels like 80. A hard pulling stem boulder, insecure friction chimney stemming, an…
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Sep 5, 2024
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When Tejas and I first went to inspect this climb he decided to bring his little dog to try out her new can…
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Aug 24, 2024
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The crux on this one felt like a turd to me until I unlocked it then it climbed quite nicely. Even got to u…
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Aug 24, 2024
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I found this one to be a good bit easier than the grade. I chose the most logical/direct start which involv…
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Jul 6, 2024
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If you can’t get anything out of the toe hook at the crux (it’s bunchy if you’re tall) try a shallow heel t…
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Jul 2, 2024
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Move for move, I think this might be one of the best 12a's in New England.
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Jun 4, 2024
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It is interesting how the crux seems to offer many different holds and possible sequences, yet you’ll never…
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May 14, 2024
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Beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=pnQEtbu… Some cool hard face climbing on this one. Recommended…
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May 2, 2024
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If you take the rest out left toward the top of the corner, try climbing direct up from there to the first…
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Apr 21, 2024
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Not nearly as bad or as sketchy as Bone Head Roof
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Apr 2, 2024
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TR setup beta: From the base of the route walk right and start scrambling up the steep hillside where some…
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Mar 16, 2024
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The “hedgehog” sloper on this climb is one of the most comfortable sharp holds ever
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