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Routes in Triple Corners Left

Amore Eel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birch Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blues for Mowgli S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drilldo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hassig's Libido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ladybug Death Orgy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Loose and Baggy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man With a Hueco in His Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Promises S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
That's a Moray T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Delights S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Fisting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking the Devil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way off route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Where am I ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Keith Becconsall 05/01
Page Views: 280 total, 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Dec 4, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This line is more fun than it looks and packs quite a punch. It feels like its on the hard side of the grade so show up ready to crank. Steep climbing up the imposing arete requires core tension, a precise sequence and a dash of raw power. Though the crux section is only about 15 feet long it feels like twice that.

Start at the base of a slab with 2 bolts on it. Climb the moderate slab to a roomy ledge where you will be able to clip 2 or 3 bolts before you really have to commit. This is where the fun begins. Make your way left under the roof toward the arete feature, the holds are a bit awkward and indistinct. Reach left to a good shallow slot in a steep face and make a hard move to a pretty good crimp above with your right. Gain a couple of goodish holds up and left then power up and toss to a crack and then a jug before making more moderate moves to mantel the lip using nice finger locks. Up the short slab to the anchors.

There is a contrived right hand finish which is harder and a bit silly in my opinion.

Location

Climbs the slab and the super steep arete on the far left buttress of Triple Corners.

Protection

8 bolts to fixed lower off biners. The 6th bolt is a little hard to clip.

Photos

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.13a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.13a
I tried Will's beta but at 6 feet tall, I could not fit the kneebar.
To me, since I have to through to the rail and campus on one arm and match my left hand, this route feels like 13a. Will go back for the send... May 28, 2017
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.12d
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.12d
I sent this today and saw where the old hold broke. I found a really fun V6 sequence that requires a right kneepad. The beta involves mostly staying right of the 4th bolt. Feels like solid 12d to me.

Beta: From the ledge, go to a high crimp with your left hand and get an obvious kneebar out right under a roof. Match and switch hands on the good crimp, left hand to undercling. Take knee bar out and grab a non-hold with your left hand over the roof to set up for a big throw left hand to a campus rung crimp rail (about 2 feet right of the good arete crimp). Once on the crimp rail, get another shallow kneebar/scum in the undercling overlap with a bad foot and bump your left hand over, then match the good crimp rail, continue to top as normal. This beta avoids the arete entirely until established on the good crimp. Oct 9, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
BUMMER! I really enjoyed this one.
damn you Nameless Climber! haha
now I'm curious to see what is missing. Apr 23, 2016
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
A climber who shall remain nameless broke a crucial (for me) hold off this route. The nice gaston by the fourth bolt is now no more. I'm sure the route still goes, but not at its current grade. Things fall apart, I guess. Apr 23, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i gave keith credit, thanks mark... and yeah, REALLY FUN!!! and hard for 5.12c i would like more folks to climb it and chime in on the grade but no one knows there is a gem waiting out there... Oct 15, 2009
M Sprague
New England
  5.12d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12d
Keith Becconsall did the FA. I think this is one of his best routes and it is fiendishly hard to me. Definitely a sandbag at 12c in the old book Oct 14, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks! the crux for me is about 8 moves long and that bolt is right in the middle so clipping it was a really big factor for me... Aug 25, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
nice dude! sick send! and i like how you go sharma style and just skip the bolt haha :) Aug 25, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i finally sent this today! the crux sequence is one of my favorite hard sequences ive climbed...

oh and clip the 6th bolt when its at your waist once you are ready to send... Aug 25, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I one hung this route today... the crux is definitely clipping the 6th bolt... but the moves are so cool and fun... Jul 15, 2009