Elevation: 1,727 ft
GPS: 44.328, -72.313 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,257 total · 234/month
Shared By: Zach Landis on Nov 29, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Marshfield Ledge is a large 3-pitch granite cliff reminiscent of Whitehorse Ledge in NH. The established routes range from traditional to sport. Many of the routes are slab, friction affairs, but recently some hard overhanging sport routes have been put in. The rock quality is great. Most of the routes have bolt anchors. This cliff has been a secret for years and is now starting to see consistent traffic. The views are splendid and look out over very undeveloped, wild green mountains.

Getting There

The cliff is located in the town of Marshfield and is on Vermont State Forest property. From Rt 302 take 232 north. From Rt. 2 take 232 south. Turn off 232 onto Lanesboro Road, just north of the Kettle Pond parking lot. Turn right at the junction on to Railroad Bed East. Follow this dirt road for .8 miles until views of the cliff appear to the north. Take your first right down a narrow dirt road. Park by a clearing, right before a fork in the road (44.3205252,-72.3201150). Take the left fork and hike the logging road for about 10 minutes until you turn right on to the climbers trail, which is just before a large 10’ boulder. Take this climbers trail all the way to the base of the cliff.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Marshfield Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 20
Just for Goobs
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Requiem for a Dreamer
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Black Streak
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
My Lucky Bun Day
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Bless The Rains
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Empty Clip
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Pistol Whipped
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
The Swarm
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 13
Marshfield Corners
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
The Deadline
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Solipsism
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Proud and Free
Trad
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 5
Groton High Grade
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Just for Goobs
 20
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Requiem for a Dreamer
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Black Streak
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
My Lucky Bun Day
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bless The Rains
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Empty Clip
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Pistol Whipped
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Swarm
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Marshfield Corners
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
The Deadline
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Solipsism
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Proud and Free
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Groton High Grade
 5
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
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