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Routes in Marshfield Ledge

"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Banch Berries T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banches With Wolves S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bless The Rains S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bum Cakes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Wing Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ledge Connector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marshfield Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Lucky Bun Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swarm, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wankers in the Kingdom T WI5 M5+ A0 R
Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

Marshfield Ledge is a large 3-pitch granite cliff reminiscent of Whitehorse Ledge in NH. The established routes range from traditional to sport. Many of the routes are slab, friction affairs, but recently some hard overhanging sport routes have been put in. The rock quality is great. Most of the routes have bolt anchors. This cliff has been a secret for years and is now starting to see consistent traffic. The views are splendid and look out over very undeveloped, wild green mountains.

Getting There

The cliff is located in the town of Marshfield and is on Vermont State Forest property. From Rt 302 take 232 north. From Rt. 2 take 232 south. Turn off 232 onto Lanesboro Road, just north of the Kettle Pond parking lot. Turn right at the junction on to Railroad Bed East. Follow this dirt road for 2 miles until views of the cliff appear to the north. Take your first right down a narrow dirt road. Park by a clearing, right before a fork in the road (44.3205252,-72.3201150). Take the left fork and hike the logging road for about 10 minutes until you turn right on to the climbers trail, which is just before a large 10’ boulder. Take this climbers trail all the way to the base of the cliff.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Marshfield Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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any one know what the rating is for the picture perfect off width route maybe a pitch or so off the deck near the center of the cliff? Jan 16, 2012
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
I believe the route you are talking about is 10+. Mar 18, 2012
As of summer 2014, the logging road that goes right off Railroad Bed East is in great shape. Drive in about half a mile to a clearing and park. A brush pile (with one piece of orange flagging) partially blocks the left fork of the logging road, which is discontinued and grassy. Hike down the left fork for five or ten minutes until a large boulder appears; the climbers' trail takes off to the right here, and is easy to follow. Jul 27, 2014
Great climbing here! Not just the home of a stellar 5.13 wall.
Good moderates with some spicy climbing. Bring your slab-climbing skills too.
Black Streak, 5.8+R
Requiem for a Dream, 5.8+ (5.7R) to Parula, 5.11a(5.7R)
Shorty's Poop Route, 5.10A,(5.6R)
and more!
Pick up the Tough Schist guidebook on Vermont rock climbing - well worth it.
Beautiful wilderness-feeling spot with lakes nearby. Aug 24, 2015
Taylor D.
Burlington, VT
Taylor D.   Burlington, VT
There are peregrine closures on part of the area this year (2018) - check the photo gallery for details. May 23, 2018

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