Just for Goobs
Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
Routes in Marshfield Ledge
|"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Chicken Wing Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Wankers in the Kingdom T WI5 M5+ A0 R|
|Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|marshfield corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Brian Wade, Andrew Farrell, Mike Blazewicz, summer 2005|
|Page Views:||1,513 total, 24/month|
|Shared By:||mmainer on Sep 23, 2012|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
This is one of the longer routes at Marshfield, and probably the easiest by grade. It roughly follows the slabby arete that delineates the right-side slabs from the more broken middle portions of the cliff.
Pitch 1: Up the slab and over an overlap with a pin under it, then up more slab and right to the short left-facing wall before the tree ledge. After surmounting the wall wherever convenient, head up the edge past a tricky spot (with tricky gear and some unpleasant fall potential), onto the next slab, past two bolts and up to a good two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Move left to the arete, and then up this, past two bolts to a nice ledge and a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: Unobvious moves up off the ledge to 4th-class slab, heading for the handcrack in the wall above. Then go up the handcrack to another two-bolt anchor with rap rings and old webbing.
Location: From the normal approach trail, head climber's right along the base of the cliff, descending to the bottom of the slabs below the high-grade wall. The start is just as you start ascending again, at a left-trending flared seam.
Descent: Rap off the anchor, aiming for the brushy ledge at the bottom of the laser-cut dihedral to climber's left. Then either use the fixed lines/anchors that access the High-Grade wall, or scramble down and left and make two more slabby rappels. There are many fixed lines and anchors on this part of the cliff. A single 60 m rope should get you down with some careful route-picking.