Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Brian Wade, Andrew Farrell, Mike Blazewicz, summer 2005
Page Views: 2,727 total · 28/month
Shared By: mmainer on Sep 23, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

This is one of the longer routes at Marshfield, and probably the easiest by grade. It roughly follows the slabby arete that delineates the right-side slabs from the more broken middle portions of the cliff.

Pitch 1: Up the slab and over an overlap with a pin under it, then up more slab and right to the short left-facing wall before the tree ledge. After surmounting the wall wherever convenient, head up the edge past a tricky spot (with tricky gear and some unpleasant fall potential), onto the next slab, past two bolts and up to a good two-bolt anchor (a variation goes left to a bolt and then back right to the anchor).

Pitch 2: Move left to the arete, and then up this, past three bolts to a nice ledge and a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Unobvious moves up off the ledge to 4th-class slab, heading for the handcrack in the wall above. Then go up the handcrack to an inline chainset anchor at a small stance.

Location: From the normal approach trail, head climber's right along the base of the cliff, descending to the bottom of the slabs below the high-grade wall. The start is just as you start ascending again, at a left-trending flared seam.

Descent: Rap off the anchor, aiming for the brushy ledge at the bottom of the laser-cut dihedral to climber's left. Then either use the fixed lines/anchors that access the High-Grade wall, or scramble down and left and make two more slabby rappels. There are many fixed lines and anchors on this part of the cliff. A single 60 m rope should get you down with some careful route-picking.

Photos