Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brian Wade, Andrew Farrell, Mike Blazewicz, summer 2005
Page Views: 1,848 total · 23/month
Shared By: mmainer on Sep 23, 2012 with updates from Greg Kuchyt
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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This is one of the longer routes at Marshfield, and probably the easiest by grade. It roughly follows the slabby arete that delineates the right-side slabs from the more broken middle portions of the cliff.

Pitch 1: Up the slab and over an overlap with a pin under it, then up more slab and right to the short left-facing wall before the tree ledge. After surmounting the wall wherever convenient, head up the edge past a tricky spot (with tricky gear and some unpleasant fall potential), onto the next slab, past two bolts and up to a good two-bolt anchor (a variation goes left to a bolt and then back right to the anchor).

Pitch 2: Move left to the arete, and then up this, past three bolts to a nice ledge and a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Unobvious moves up off the ledge to 4th-class slab, heading for the handcrack in the wall above. Then go up the handcrack to another two-bolt anchor with rap rings.

Location: From the normal approach trail, head climber's right along the base of the cliff, descending to the bottom of the slabs below the high-grade wall. The start is just as you start ascending again, at a left-trending flared seam.

Descent: Rap off the anchor, aiming for the brushy ledge at the bottom of the laser-cut dihedral to climber's left. Then either use the fixed lines/anchors that access the High-Grade wall, or scramble down and left and make two more slabby rappels. There are many fixed lines and anchors on this part of the cliff. A single 60 m rope should get you down with some careful route-picking.

Photos

Derek Doucet  
 
Ah, man...you spoiled my onsight attempt with the deluge of beta spray... Sep 24, 2012
mmainer
  5.7+
mmainer  
  5.7+
Hmmm... apparently Mountain Project isn't as easy to use as I thought... I've even got a picture from the top, if you're still projecting this. Sep 30, 2012
Andrew Mertens
Fort Collins
  5.8
Andrew Mertens   Fort Collins
  5.8
The second pitch has some loose stacked blocks on the arete, and some car-sized blocks they are stacked on seem detached from the cliff. Don't place gear in the cracks formed by the blocks! You can mostly avoid climbing on them and the climbing is pretty easy by them, but my partner accidentally knocked one of the stacked blocks off.
Other than that, the route's very fun and varied, and better than some more popular routes of the same grade, like Funhouse to Upper Refuse on Cathedral. Aug 26, 2013
Nate Solnit
Bath, NH
Nate Solnit   Bath, NH
It should be noted on the first pitch that the standard route goes right from the last two bolts into an arching overlap. There seems to be a variation off left past another bolt, but I think it's harder and at least today was soaked while the overlap was dry. Jun 6, 2014
Derek Doucet  
 
Hey Nate,

Is this route not closed for Peregrine nesting at the moment? Jun 9, 2014
Ben Townsend  
 
Other than being a bit dirty, this route is a New England classic. The rock quality is unexpectedly good! Four one-rope rappels down the route, watching the rope ends on the first two raps as they are both very close to 100'. The last rap anchor is an obvious spruce tree on a ledge to the right, about halfway down the first pitch. We replaced the anchor webbing on the top anchor, and on the tree.

We saw and heard peregrines, but from all available information (including signs at the cliff), the closure is only for routes left of Black Streak. Jul 27, 2014