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Routes in Main Cliff
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"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bless The Rains S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boneless Chicken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bum Cakes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Captain Planet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chicken Wing Slab S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Curving Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deadline, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Empty Clip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Falcons Fury T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ledge Connector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lord Frothington S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lycanthropy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Marshfield Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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My Lucky Bun Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunny Sick Day S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swarm, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ultra-Violet Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wasp flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Wee Bitty Arachnid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski. October 2018. |
| Page Views: | 1,488 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew P on Oct 26, 2019 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
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Description
We only climbed the first three pitches (the 4th was wet), but this was one of the few routes that was dry the day after a heavy rain, so I thought it was worth submitting. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of this route! Fun movement, good gear, beautiful setting.
P1: Climb up the right slanting ramp, mantle onto the ledge above. Step left and clip a bolt, and then quest up into the fun slab above following the line of bolts. Two bolt anchor (5.8).
P2: Clip the bolt right above the anchor, then pull a fun (but tricky) move past it. Fun climbing up flakes (protects with mostly finger sized cams in the flakes, some of which sounded a bit hollow). Another tricky move leads to another bolt. After clipping that, pull a tough mantel onto the ledge above. Tree anchor (5.9+).
P3: Head left up the gully with a couple trees growing out of it. Stand on the ledge and clip a bolt, and then make your way past a thin face/slab section until you can grab jugs. Continue up the face (bolted, with some gear placements in between the longer runouts). Make another tough move past the last bolt, and then stand up into the right facing corner above. Instead of climbing this corner, step left and climb the beautiful finger-thin hands crack. Unfortunately, this crack does not last as long as you would like and the angle quickly eases off. Two bolt anchor (5.9, but I thought it was just as tough as the 9+ pitch).
P4: This was rather wet looking so we rapped, but: 5.8 according to Tough Schist. Looked like a mostly bolted pitch, but it did look a bit run out to the first bolt - although maybe some gear placements were possible in a small left corner before the first bolt?? Go figure it out! A short pitch, we saw a two bolt anchor at the end (5.8).
You can rap the route with a 70.
P1: Climb up the right slanting ramp, mantle onto the ledge above. Step left and clip a bolt, and then quest up into the fun slab above following the line of bolts. Two bolt anchor (5.8).
P2: Clip the bolt right above the anchor, then pull a fun (but tricky) move past it. Fun climbing up flakes (protects with mostly finger sized cams in the flakes, some of which sounded a bit hollow). Another tricky move leads to another bolt. After clipping that, pull a tough mantel onto the ledge above. Tree anchor (5.9+).
P3: Head left up the gully with a couple trees growing out of it. Stand on the ledge and clip a bolt, and then make your way past a thin face/slab section until you can grab jugs. Continue up the face (bolted, with some gear placements in between the longer runouts). Make another tough move past the last bolt, and then stand up into the right facing corner above. Instead of climbing this corner, step left and climb the beautiful finger-thin hands crack. Unfortunately, this crack does not last as long as you would like and the angle quickly eases off. Two bolt anchor (5.9, but I thought it was just as tough as the 9+ pitch).
P4: This was rather wet looking so we rapped, but: 5.8 according to Tough Schist. Looked like a mostly bolted pitch, but it did look a bit run out to the first bolt - although maybe some gear placements were possible in a small left corner before the first bolt?? Go figure it out! A short pitch, we saw a two bolt anchor at the end (5.8).
You can rap the route with a 70.
Location
A bit difficult to describe, especially since I didn't get any pictures. Probably best if you have the guidebook since there are many routes not on MP, but I'll do my best: Black Streak (5.9) is an obvious landmark, and the first route you see when approaching the cliff (it is a black streak with bolts going up it). From here, walk right along the base off the cliff for a short distance. Look for the right slanting ramp at the start of the 1st pitch which leads to a ledge, and there is a line of bolts above that.
Protection
I brought 10ish draws, a rack from purple C3 to #2 C4 (doubles in finger sizes), and an assortment of nuts and that was probably excessive. I never ended up placing the #2 although you probably could, and the doubles in fingers weren't necessary. You could also get away without the microcams, but I did place one on the 2nd pitch.
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