Elevation: 866 ft
GPS: 44.247, -72.578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,548,214 total · 9,198/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

For those who fall in love with Vermont, it's more than just local climbing. Vermont has long granite slabs, overhanging sport routes, beautiful schist and granite boulders, lakeside limestone, adventurous trad lines, and of course, world-class ice climbing. All in a setting that people drive hundreds of miles just to gawk at and with many cliffs that you will never see another person at. It's our hidden gem of New England and it's hiding in plain sight. Vermont is no longer just a central location to the neighboring rock of the Adirondacks and the White Mountains, it stands proud with its own 5-star lines as good as any in the Northeast.

Vermont has a storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing. The climbing and bouldering here is on state, private, and LCO-owned land and while many of the access issues have been smoothed out through the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, CRAG-VT (www.cragvt.org), use care and check with locals before heading out.

So be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice, Vermont indeed has plenty to offer. Ranging from thuggishly steep to thin and technical, and from the bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch. The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity. Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.

Historical Note: Vermont is on land stolen from the Abenaki, Mohawk, and Penacook indigenous people.

Getting There

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.

1,571 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Vermont Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 27
Last Gentleman
Ice 4 pitches
V1 5 PG13
 46
The Fin
Boulder
V2 5+
 60
Biscuit
Boulder
V3 6A
 57
Primate
Boulder
V3 6A
 76
Pac-Man
Boulder
V6 7A
 49
Boomerang
Boulder
V7 7A+
 32
Little Cottonwood
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
Center Crack
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 51
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
 54
Harvest Moon
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Private Property
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
The Rose
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Fresh Meat
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 28
Release the Hens
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gentleman Vermont Ice &… > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 27
WI5 Ice 4 pitches
The Fin Smugglers' Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 46
V1 5 PG13 Boulder
Biscuit Smugglers' Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Biscuit & Gravy Boulders
 60
V2 5+ Boulder
Primate Smugglers' Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > Backyard Boulder
 57
V3 6A Boulder
Pac-Man Smugglers' Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Pac Man Boulder
 76
V3 6A Boulder
Boomerang Smugglers' Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > Asteroid
 49
V6 7A Boulder
Little Cottonwood Smugglers' Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 32
V7 7A+ Boulder
Center Crack Deer Leap
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chockstone (Ledangier) Bolton Area > Upper West > C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 51
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Harvest Moon Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 54
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R Trad, TR
Hush, Mama Thrush Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Property Bolton Area > Upper West > B - Upper Tier - Left…
 57
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Rose Bolton Area > Upper West > F - N End
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Fresh Meat Bolton Area > Upper West > E - Lower Tier
 47
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Release the Hens Bolton Area > Bolton Dome > 5. Main Wall
 28
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Vermont »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos