Elevation: 866 ft
GPS: 44.247, -72.578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 889,798 total · 5,781/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006 with improvements by Max Forbes
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

For those who fall in love with Vermont, it's more than just local climbing. Vermont has long granite slabs, overhanging sport routes, beautiful schist and granite boulders, lakeside limestone, adventurous trad lines, and of course, world-class ice climbing. All in a setting that people drive hundreds of miles just to gawk at and with many cliffs that you will never see another person at. It's our hidden gem of New England and it's hiding in plain sight. Vermont is no longer just a central location to the neighboring rock of the Adirondacks and the White Mountains, it stands proud with its own 5-star lines as good as any in the Northeast.

Vermont has a storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing. The climbing and bouldering here is on state, private, and LCO-owned land and while many of the access issues have been smoothed out through the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, CRAG-VT (www.cragvt.org), use care and check with locals before heading out.

So be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice, Vermont indeed has plenty to offer. Ranging from thuggishly steep to thin and technical, and from the bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch. The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity. Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.

Historical Note: Vermont was previously and continues to be occupied by Abenaki, Mohawk, and Penacook indigenous people.

Getting There

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.

1,011 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4-5
 20
Crazy Diamond
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 20
Last Gentleman
Ice 4 pitches
WI4+ M4
 18
Ragnarock
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI5
 20
Glass Menagerie
Ice 2 pitches
V1 5 PG13
 32
The Fin
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
 47
Biscuit
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 44
Primate
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 62
Pac-Man
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
 35
Boomerang
Boulder, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Center Crack
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 45
Harvest Moon
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 43
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
The Rose
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
The Thorn
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crazy Diamond Vermont Ice &… > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 20
WI4-5 Ice 2 pitches
Last Gentleman Vermont Ice &… > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 20
WI5 Ice 4 pitches
Ragnarock Vermont Ice &… > Smugglers Notch… > 08E - Elephant's Head…
 18
WI4+ M4 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Glass Menagerie Vermont Ice &… > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 20
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Fin Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 32
V1 5 PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Biscuit Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Biscuit & Gravy Boulders
 47
V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Primate Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > Backyard Boulder
 44
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Pac-Man Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Pac Man Boulder
 62
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Boomerang Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > Asteroid
 35
V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Center Crack Deer Leap
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Harvest Moon Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 45
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Chockstone (Ledangier) Bolton Area > Upper West > C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 43
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Hush, Mama Thrush Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Rose Bolton Area > Upper West > F - N End
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Thorn Bolton Area > Upper West > F - N End
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Vermont »

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