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Areas in Vermont

*Vermont Ice Climbing 42 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 48 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 48
Abbey Pond Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Bald Hill 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Black Mountain 18 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Bolton Area 109 / 75 / 13 / 42 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 226
Brandon Gap 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Chittenden Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Creature Rock Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
DEKD boulders in Killington 0 / 0 / 0 / 108 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 108
Deer Leap 11 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 11
Eagle Hollow 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Ethan Allen Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Groton 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Jamaica 3 / 0 / 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Killington - route 100 North 0 / 0 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana 3 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lone Rock Point 0 / 5 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Marshfield Ledge 11 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 17
Mount Hor 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Mt Mansfield 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pisgah Crag 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Prospect Rock 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Riverside Walls 12 / 1 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Roxbury 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Smuggler's Notch 8 / 1 / 1 / 169 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 169 / 178
Wheeler Mountain 20 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Winooski Cut 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
rt 11/30 AT/LT parking lot 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 866 ft
GPS: 44.247, -72.578 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006 with updates
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

Description

Many out-of-state climbers ask: "Is there climbing in Vermont?" My first temptation is to say "no", or "yes, but it's all on private property, and can't be climbed anyway, so it's useless to even try."

But realistically, Vermont has a long and storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing, that includes such pioneers as Fritz Weissner, John Bouchard, and Russ Clune. The Green Mountain State houses a large variety of climbing and bouldering on state and private land. And much of the outlying access issues that remain have been, or are in the process of, being smoothed out thanks to the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, Crag-VT (www.cragvt.org) Still, rock climbing in our state has its fair share of sensitive issues, so care must always be taken if ever there is doubt.

Be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice--Vermont has it all. Climbing ranges from thuggishly-steep to thin and technical, and from short bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch State Park.
The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity (read: Scottish weather.) Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.

Getting There

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.

773 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
Last Gentleman
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4+
Crazy Diamond
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+ M4
Ragnarock
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI5
Glass Menagerie
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
V1 5 PG13
The Fin
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
Biscuit
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
Primate
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
Pac-Man
Boulder, Alpine
V6-7 7A+
Tome's Roof
Boulder, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Crack
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Monkey
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Rose
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Thorn
Trad
Last Gentleman *Vermont Ice Clim… > Lake Willoughby > Mount Pisgah WI5 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Crazy Diamond *Vermont Ice Clim… > Lake Willoughby > Mount Pisgah WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Ragnarock *Vermont Ice Clim… > Smugglers Notch I… > 08E - Elephant's Head Area WI4+ M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Glass Menagerie *Vermont Ice Clim… > Lake Willoughby > Mount Pisgah WI5 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
The Fin Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notch… > B.F.B. V1 5 PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Biscuit Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind t… > Biscuit and Gravy Boulders V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Primate Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notch… > Backyard Boulder V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Pac-Man Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind t… > Pac Man Boulder V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Tome's Roof Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind t… > Tomes Boulder V6-7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
Center Crack Deer Leap 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chockstone (aka:Captain's C… Bolton Area > Upper West > Upper Tier - Right End 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Hush, Mama Thrush Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Monkey Deer Leap 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Rose Bolton Area > Upper West > N End 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Thorn Bolton Area > Upper West > N End 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Vermont »

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Photos

Yep. It's called Dear Leap (not to be confused with the other Dear Leap on Sherburne Pass near Killington). Unfortunately, as good as it looks from afar, it's not particularly inspiring up close. The rock lacks many features or obvious lines and is much more ledgy than you'd think when looking from the road. What cracks there are have razor sharp edges...sharp enough to make you wonder if you're going to lose a finger if your feet slip when jamming. There have been a few routes done there over the years, but nothing I'd ever go back for, personally. The one exception is a rarely formed south facing 2 pitch grade 4 ice route which is superb. It follows a thin runnel in a left facing corner for a first pitch (rock gear and the occasional stubby) to a sweet belay ledge. You can then step left off the ledge on to a nice steep pillar to the top. It's hardly ever in, and when it does come in, it only stays in for a day or two, but it's great.

But don't take my word for it. Head up there and explore. It's a cool place to hike around for sure. Oct 25, 2017
Any info on that huge cliff near Rocky Dale above the Bristol Cliffs wilderness? I think its public land, no? it looks really good... you can get a great view of it from the intersection looking north.
Apologies if this is a dumb question, I am not from the area. Oct 22, 2017
as anybody looked at the cliff band near Fairfax ? Mar 11, 2017
ABH
St. Paul, MN
ABH   St. Paul, MN
FYI to any rock-starved Vermont climbers: while hiking on the Long Trail this summer I noticed some pretty good quality rock on Laraway Mountain (which is near Waterville and Belvidere). There were four separate tiers that you pass when walking along the trail, with the lowest tier being probably the best. It looked like it would be best for sport--most of it was about 10-20 degrees overhanging, not huge amounts of places for gear. Googling "Laraway cliffs" shows you a few photos, though I thought the crag looked better in real life than it does in any of the photos! Sep 25, 2015
Has anyone explored the area around White Rocks for bouldering? I would expect there might be something off the Hartsboro Road or Ice Beds Road. Feb 21, 2014
Hey Balzano,

The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.

Cheers,

Derek Sep 19, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
balzano   Augusta, ME
I answered my Camel's Hump question already... sort of. I read the specific rules on the hand out sheet you get at the trailhead, also available online, and it says rock climbing is forbidden. My assumption is that they want the alpine zone undisturbed outside of the trail itself. My rebuttal is, the area with potential climbing is 100% exposed rock, and once topping out one can probably rock hop back over to the trail with minimal difficulty---if no rope is used, and one scrambles up the easy gully, is that the "rock climbing" they have in mind? I suppose my question is now this: "Are you required to stay on the trails at all times above the tree line at Camel's Hump?" I don't want to disturb anything I am not supposed to, but I don't want to miss out on an awesome little line either. Sep 18, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
balzano   Augusta, ME
Does anybody know if there are any lines up the chin at Camel's Hump. I hiked the Alpine trail up and there appeared to be an easy gully line and then some challenging possibilities on the steeper areas. Sep 18, 2012
Just got back from Creature Rock (www.windmillhillpinnacle.org) There are a lot of potential lines to be sent, let me know if anyone is up for cleaning some rock and putting up lines. Aug 4, 2012
Vermont's first rockclimbing guidebook is ready to ship in about a week. You can get them here: vermontrock.com/! Jul 26, 2012
Nick Goldsmith
Pomfret VT
Nick Goldsmith   Pomfret VT
The Deer leap webguide is back up. deerleapclimbing.com/ It is still badly out of date and needs corrections that neither Isa or I have time to do right now.. There are a bunch of new shorter spurt climbs down low and to the right as well as a few left of the lower tier mostly put up by Bob Gilito. Looks like Nick Hall freed Bag o tricks @ 10+ the Parking lot slab 5.5 is a good mixed beginner lead and just left of the approach trail right near the parking lot. Aug 28, 2011

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