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Areas in Vermont

*Vermont Ice Climbing 42 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 49 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 49
Abbey Pond Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Bald Hill 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Black Mountain 22 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Bolton Area 113 / 85 / 16 / 78 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 277
Brandon Gap 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Butchers Crag 1 / 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Butchers Island 5 / 2 / 7 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Chittenden Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Creature Rock Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
DEKD boulders in Killington 0 / 0 / 0 / 108 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 108
Deer Leap 11 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 11
Eagle Hollow 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Ethan Allen Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Groton 0 / 0 / 0 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Jamaica 5 / 0 / 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Killington - route 100 North 0 / 0 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lone Rock Point 0 / 8 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Marshfield Ledge 13 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 24
Mount Hor 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Mt Mansfield 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pisgah Crag 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Prospect Rock 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Riverside Walls 12 / 1 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Roxbury 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Smuggler's Notch 14 / 2 / 1 / 192 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 192 / 208
Wheeler Mountain 21 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Winooski Cut/Quarry 0 / 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
rt 11/30 AT/LT parking lot 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 866 ft
GPS: 44.247, -72.578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 644,721 total · 4,452/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006 with updates from Max Forbes
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Many out-of-state climbers ask: "Is there climbing in Vermont?" My first temptation is to say "no", or "yes, but it's all on private property, and can't be climbed anyway, so it's useless to even try."

But realistically, Vermont has a long and storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing, that includes such pioneers as Fritz Weissner, John Bouchard, and Russ Clune. The Green Mountain State houses a large variety of climbing and bouldering on state and private land. And much of the outlying access issues that remain have been, or are in the process of, being smoothed out thanks to the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, Crag-VT (www.cragvt.org) Still, rock climbing in our state has its fair share of sensitive issues, so care must always be taken if ever there is doubt.

Be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice--Vermont has it all. Climbing ranges from thuggishly-steep to thin and technical, and from short bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch State Park.
The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity (read: Scottish weather.) Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.

Getting There

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.

902 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+
 17
Crazy Diamond
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 15
Last Gentleman
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4+ M4
 14
Ragnarock
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
V1 5 PG13
 29
The Fin
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
 42
Biscuit
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 43
Primate
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 57
Pac-Man
Boulder, Alpine
V7 7A+
 20
Little Cottonwood
Boulder, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Center Crack
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 39
Harvest Moon
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 42
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Private Property
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
The Rose
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
The Thorn
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crazy Diamond Vermont Ice Cli… > Lake Willoughby > Mount Pisgah
 17
WI4+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Last Gentleman Vermont Ice Cli… > Lake Willoughby > Mount Pisgah
 15
WI5 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Ragnarock Vermont Ice Cli… > Smugglers Notch… > 08E - Elephant's Head…
 14
WI4+ M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
The Fin Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 29
V1 5 PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Biscuit Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Biscuit and Gravy Bou…
 42
V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Primate Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > Backyard Boulder
 43
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Pac-Man Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Pac Man Boulder
 57
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Little Cottonwood Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 20
V7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
Center Crack Deer Leap
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Harvest Moon Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 39
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Chockstone (Ledangier) Bolton Area > Upper West > C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 42
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Hush, Mama Thrush Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Property Bolton Area > Upper West > B - Upper Tier - Left…
 45
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Rose Bolton Area > Upper West > F - N End
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Thorn Bolton Area > Upper West > F - N End
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Vermont »

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Photos

Nick Goldsmith
Pomfret VT
Nick Goldsmith   Pomfret VT
Deer leap. There are a bunch of new shorter sport climbs down low and to the right as well as a few left of the lower tier mostly put up by Bob Gilito. Looks like Nick Hall freed Bag o tricks @ 10+ the Parking lot slab 5.5 is a good mixed beginner lead and just left of the approach trail right near the parking lot. Aug 28, 2011
Vermont's first rockclimbing guidebook is ready to ship in about a week. You can get them here: vermontrock.com/! Jul 26, 2012
Just got back from Creature Rock (www.windmillhillpinnacle.org) There are a lot of potential lines to be sent, let me know if anyone is up for cleaning some rock and putting up lines. Aug 4, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
balzano   Augusta, ME
Does anybody know if there are any lines up the chin at Camel's Hump. I hiked the Alpine trail up and there appeared to be an easy gully line and then some challenging possibilities on the steeper areas. Sep 18, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
balzano   Augusta, ME
I answered my Camel's Hump question already... sort of. I read the specific rules on the hand out sheet you get at the trailhead, also available online, and it says rock climbing is forbidden. My assumption is that they want the alpine zone undisturbed outside of the trail itself. My rebuttal is, the area with potential climbing is 100% exposed rock, and once topping out one can probably rock hop back over to the trail with minimal difficulty---if no rope is used, and one scrambles up the easy gully, is that the "rock climbing" they have in mind? I suppose my question is now this: "Are you required to stay on the trails at all times above the tree line at Camel's Hump?" I don't want to disturb anything I am not supposed to, but I don't want to miss out on an awesome little line either. Sep 18, 2012
Hey Balzano,

The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.

Cheers,

Derek Sep 19, 2012
Has anyone explored the area around White Rocks for bouldering? I would expect there might be something off the Hartsboro Road or Ice Beds Road. Feb 21, 2014
ABH
St. Paul, MN
ABH   St. Paul, MN
FYI to any rock-starved Vermont climbers: while hiking on the Long Trail this summer I noticed some pretty good quality rock on Laraway Mountain (which is near Waterville and Belvidere). There were four separate tiers that you pass when walking along the trail, with the lowest tier being probably the best. It looked like it would be best for sport--most of it was about 10-20 degrees overhanging, not huge amounts of places for gear. Googling "Laraway cliffs" shows you a few photos, though I thought the crag looked better in real life than it does in any of the photos! Sep 25, 2015
as anybody looked at the cliff band near Fairfax ? Mar 11, 2017
Any info on that huge cliff near Rocky Dale above the Bristol Cliffs wilderness? I think its public land, no? it looks really good... you can get a great view of it from the intersection looking north.
Apologies if this is a dumb question, I am not from the area. Oct 22, 2017
Yep. It's called Dear Leap (not to be confused with the other Dear Leap on Sherburne Pass near Killington). Unfortunately, as good as it looks from afar, it's not particularly inspiring up close. The rock lacks many features or obvious lines and is much more ledgy than you'd think when looking from the road. What cracks there are have razor sharp edges...sharp enough to make you wonder if you're going to lose a finger if your feet slip when jamming. There have been a few routes done there over the years, but nothing I'd ever go back for, personally. The one exception is a rarely formed south facing 2 pitch grade 4 ice route which is superb. It follows a thin runnel in a left facing corner for a first pitch (rock gear and the occasional stubby) to a sweet belay ledge. You can then step left off the ledge on to a nice steep pillar to the top. It's hardly ever in, and when it does come in, it only stays in for a day or two, but it's great.

But don't take my word for it. Head up there and explore. It's a cool place to hike around for sure. Oct 25, 2017

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