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Elevation: 880 ft 268 m
GPS: 44.24715, -72.57844
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Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

For those who fall in love with Vermont, it's more than just local climbing. Vermont has long granite slabs, overhanging sport routes, beautiful schist, gneiss, and granite boulders, lakeside dolostone, adventurous trad lines, and of course, world-class ice climbing. The state is one of the most geologically diverse places in the country. All in a setting that people drive hundreds of miles just to gawk at. And with many cliffs that you'll never see another person at, it's our hidden gem of New England and it's hiding in plain sight. Vermont is no longer just a central location to the neighboring rock of the Adirondacks and the White Mountains, it stands proud with its own 5-star lines as good as any in the Northeast.

Vermont has a storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing. The climbing and bouldering here is on state, federal, private, and LCO-owned land and while many of the access issues have been smoothed out through the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, CRAG-VT (www.cragvt.org), use care and check with locals before heading out.

So be it schist, gneiss, granite, dolostone, or ice, Vermont indeed has plenty to offer. Ranging from thuggishly steep to thin and technical, and from the bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to steep technical boulders in Smuggs, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch. The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time to time, and regularly like climbing in the face of black flies and bushwhack-themed adversity. Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you'll, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.

Historical Note: Vermont and its climbing is on land stolen from the Abenaki, Mohawk, and Penacook indigenous people.

Getting There Suggest change

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.

2,517 Total Climbs

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Location: Vermont Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 48
Glass Menagerie
Ice 2 pitches
V1 5 PG13
 82
The Fin
Boulder
V1 5
 65
The Obtuse
Boulder
V2 5+
 113
Biscuit
Boulder
V5 6C
 65
The Roots
Boulder
V6 7A
 86
Boomerang
Boulder
V7 7A+
 61
Pulled Pork
Boulder
V7 7A+
 65
Little Cottonwood
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 84
Center Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 97
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 88
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 114
The Rose
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 61
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
Paradox
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 86
Release the Hens
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Glass Menagerie VT Ice & Mixed > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 48
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Fin 1. Northern Ver… > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 82
V1 5 PG13 Boulder
The Obtuse 1. Northern Ver… > … > Roots/ Moon Tow… > Roots Boulder
 65
V1 5 Boulder
Biscuit 1. Northern Ver… > … > Boulders Behind… > Biscuit & Gravy Boulders
 113
V2 5+ Boulder
The Roots 1. Northern Ver… > … > Roots/ Moon Tow… > Roots Boulder
 65
V5 6C Boulder
Boomerang 1. Northern Ver… > … > Top of the Notc… > Asteroid
 86
V6 7A Boulder
Pulled Pork 1. Northern Ver… > … > Top of the Notc… > Asteroid
 61
V7 7A+ Boulder
Little Cottonwood 1. Northern Ver… > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 65
V7 7A+ Boulder
Center Crack 2. Central Vermont > Deer Leap > Main wall
 84
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Hush, Mama Thrush 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 97
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chockstone (Ledangier) 1. Northern Ver… > … > Upper West > C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
The Rose 1. Northern Ver… > … > Upper West > F - N End
 114
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Thorn 1. Northern Ver… > … > Upper West > F - N End
 61
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Paradox 1. Northern Ver… > … > Upper West > E - Lower Tier
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Release the Hens 1. Northern Ver… > … > Bolton Dome > 06. Main Wall
 86
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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