Elevation: 866 ft
GPS: 44.247, -72.578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 758,729 total · 5,031/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006 with improvements by Max Forbes
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

For those who fall in love with Vermont, it's more than just local climbing. Vermont has long granite slabs, overhanging sport routes, beautiful schist and granite boulders, lakeside limestone, adventurous trad lines, and of course, world-class ice climbing. All in a setting that people drive hundreds of miles just to gawk at and with many cliffs that you will never see another person at. It's our hidden gem of New England and it's hiding in plain sight. Vermont is no longer just a central location to the neighboring rock of the Adirondacks and the White Mountains, it stands proud with its own 5-star lines as good as any in the Northeast.

Vermont has a storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing. The climbing and bouldering here is on state, private, and LCO-owned land and while many of the access issues have been smoothed out through the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, CRAG-VT (www.cragvt.org), use care and check with locals before heading out.

So be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice, Vermont indeed has plenty to offer. Ranging from thuggishly steep to thin and technical, and from the bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch. The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity. Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.

Historical Note: Vermont was previously and continues to be occupied by Abenaki, Mohawk, and Penacook indigenous people.

Getting There

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.

980 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vermont

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4-5
 20
Crazy Diamond
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 20
Last Gentleman
Ice 4 pitches
WI4+ M4
 18
Ragnarock
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI5
 19
Glass Menagerie
Ice 2 pitches
V1 5 PG13
 32
The Fin
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
 43
Biscuit
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 43
Primate
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 58
Pac-Man
Boulder, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Center Crack
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 41
Harvest Moon
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 42
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Private Property
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
The Rose
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
The Thorn
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crazy Diamond Vermont Ice &… > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 20
WI4-5 Ice 2 pitches
Last Gentleman Vermont Ice &… > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 20
WI5 Ice 4 pitches
Ragnarock Vermont Ice &… > Smugglers Notch… > 08E - Elephant's Head…
 18
WI4+ M4 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Glass Menagerie Vermont Ice &… > Lake Willoughby > Mt Pisgah
 19
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Fin Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 32
V1 5 PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Biscuit Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Biscuit & Gravy Boulders
 43
V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Primate Smuggler's Notch > … > Top of the Notc… > Backyard Boulder
 43
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Pac-Man Smuggler's Notch > … > Boulders Behind… > Pac Man Boulder
 58
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Center Crack Deer Leap
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Harvest Moon Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 41
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Chockstone (Ledangier) Bolton Area > Upper West > C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 42
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Hush, Mama Thrush Bolton Area > Lower W Bolton
 45
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Property Bolton Area > Upper West > B - Upper Tier - Left…
 47
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Rose Bolton Area > Upper West > F - N End
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Thorn Bolton Area > Upper West > F - N End
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Vermont »

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Photos

Nick Goldsmith
Pomfret VT
Nick Goldsmith   Pomfret VT
Deer leap. There are a bunch of new shorter sport climbs down low and to the right as well as a few left of the lower tier mostly put up by Bob Gilito. Looks like Nick Hall freed Bag o tricks @ 10+ the Parking lot slab 5.5 is a good mixed beginner lead and just left of the approach trail right near the parking lot. Aug 28, 2011
Vermont's first rockclimbing guidebook is ready to ship in about a week. You can get them here: vermontrock.com/! Jul 26, 2012
Just got back from Creature Rock (www.windmillhillpinnacle.org) There are a lot of potential lines to be sent, let me know if anyone is up for cleaning some rock and putting up lines. Aug 4, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
balzano   Augusta, ME
Does anybody know if there are any lines up the chin at Camel's Hump. I hiked the Alpine trail up and there appeared to be an easy gully line and then some challenging possibilities on the steeper areas. Sep 18, 2012
balzano
Augusta, ME
balzano   Augusta, ME
I answered my Camel's Hump question already... sort of. I read the specific rules on the hand out sheet you get at the trailhead, also available online, and it says rock climbing is forbidden. My assumption is that they want the alpine zone undisturbed outside of the trail itself. My rebuttal is, the area with potential climbing is 100% exposed rock, and once topping out one can probably rock hop back over to the trail with minimal difficulty---if no rope is used, and one scrambles up the easy gully, is that the "rock climbing" they have in mind? I suppose my question is now this: "Are you required to stay on the trails at all times above the tree line at Camel's Hump?" I don't want to disturb anything I am not supposed to, but I don't want to miss out on an awesome little line either. Sep 18, 2012
Hey Balzano,

The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.

Cheers,

Derek Sep 19, 2012
Has anyone explored the area around White Rocks for bouldering? I would expect there might be something off the Hartsboro Road or Ice Beds Road. Feb 21, 2014
ABH
St. Paul, MN
ABH   St. Paul, MN
FYI to any rock-starved Vermont climbers: while hiking on the Long Trail this summer I noticed some pretty good quality rock on Laraway Mountain (which is near Waterville and Belvidere). There were four separate tiers that you pass when walking along the trail, with the lowest tier being probably the best. It looked like it would be best for sport--most of it was about 10-20 degrees overhanging, not huge amounts of places for gear. Googling "Laraway cliffs" shows you a few photos, though I thought the crag looked better in real life than it does in any of the photos! Sep 25, 2015
as anybody looked at the cliff band near Fairfax ? Mar 11, 2017
Any info on that huge cliff near Rocky Dale above the Bristol Cliffs wilderness? I think its public land, no? it looks really good... you can get a great view of it from the intersection looking north.
Apologies if this is a dumb question, I am not from the area. Oct 22, 2017
Yep. It's called Dear Leap (not to be confused with the other Dear Leap on Sherburne Pass near Killington). Unfortunately, as good as it looks from afar, it's not particularly inspiring up close. The rock lacks many features or obvious lines and is much more ledgy than you'd think when looking from the road. What cracks there are have razor sharp edges...sharp enough to make you wonder if you're going to lose a finger if your feet slip when jamming. There have been a few routes done there over the years, but nothing I'd ever go back for, personally. The one exception is a rarely formed south facing 2 pitch grade 4 ice route which is superb. It follows a thin runnel in a left facing corner for a first pitch (rock gear and the occasional stubby) to a sweet belay ledge. You can then step left off the ledge on to a nice steep pillar to the top. It's hardly ever in, and when it does come in, it only stays in for a day or two, but it's great.

But don't take my word for it. Head up there and explore. It's a cool place to hike around for sure. Oct 25, 2017
Cidamon GD
woodbury
Cidamon GD   woodbury
Anyone know any beta or access issues to ice climbing brandon gap? I have not been able to find any historic routes or attempts. If anyone is interested in scouting the area give some hoots. Dec 12, 2018