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Areas in Smuggler's Notch

Easy Gully Buttress 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elephant's Head Buttress 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lower Ragnarock 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Quartz Crack Face 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 6
Smuggler's Notch Bouldering 0 / 0 / 1 / 192 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 192 / 192
Elevation: 2,127 ft
GPS: 44.556, -72.794 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 139,325 total · 963/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 27, 2006 with updates from rogerk klinger
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
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Description

Home to dozens of amazing ice climbs. The area can either be very busy or totally empty - it's safe to count on a small crowd though.

Getting There

Park on Rt. 108 where the road ends (seasonal road - don't try to drive up it, tickets are typically around $150 and the State Troopers love to hand em out).

Ski, snowshoe or hike up the road a mile or two to get to your climb - the climbs are obvious and located on both sides of the road.

208 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Smuggler's Notch Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Smuggler's Notch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 PG13
 29
The Fin
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
 42
Biscuit
Boulder, Alpine
V2-3 5+ PG13
 17
General Patton's Arete
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 43
Primate
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 57
Pac-Man
Boulder, Alpine
V5 6C
 21
The Roots
Boulder, Alpine
V5-6 6C+ PG13
 14
The Green Egg (aka "Green Mountain Gr…
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
 27
Boomerang
Boulder, Alpine
V6-7 7A+
 15
Tome's Roof
Boulder, Alpine
V7 7A+
 22
Pulled Pork
Boulder, Alpine
V7 7A+
 20
Little Cottonwood
Boulder, Alpine
V8 7B
 22
The Impossible Problem
Boulder, Alpine
V8 7B
 16
Rhode Island Ripper
Boulder, Alpine
V11 8A
 4
Blunt
Boulder, Alpine
V12 8A+
 6
Touching the Sky
Boulder, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Fin Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 29
V1 5 PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Biscuit Smuggler's Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Biscuit and Gravy Bou…
 42
V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
General Patton's Arete Smuggler's Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Patton Boulder
 17
V2-3 5+ PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Primate Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > Backyard Boulder
 43
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Pac-Man Smuggler's Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Pac Man Boulder
 57
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
The Roots Smuggler's Notc… > Roots Boulder Area > Roots Boulder
 21
V5 6C Boulder, Alpine
The Green Egg (aka "Green M… Smuggler's Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Green Cave
 14
V5-6 6C+ PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Boomerang Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > Asteroid
 27
V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Tome's Roof Smuggler's Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Tomes Boulder
 15
V6-7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
Pulled Pork Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > Asteroid
 22
V7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
Little Cottonwood Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 20
V7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
The Impossible Problem Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > Backyard Boulder
 22
V8 7B Boulder, Alpine
Rhode Island Ripper Smuggler's Notc… > Boulders Behind… > RI Boulder
 16
V8 7B Boulder, Alpine
Blunt Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 4
V11 8A Boulder, Alpine
Touching the Sky Smuggler's Notc… > Top of the Notc… > B.F.B.
 6
V12 8A+ Boulder, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Smuggler's Notch »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Arian
suwanee
Arian   suwanee
Check out Tim Kemple's guidebook for the area, New England Bouldering. It can be picked up at just about any outdoor shop for under $30 and it includes not only Smugglers Notch, but many other areas in New England as well such as Rumney, Lincoln Woods, Pawtuckaway, just to name a few. The new edition even has updated lines like the V11 Truth and Lies. Apr 13, 2010
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
I would air on the side of caution when using the aforementioned guidebook when visiting Smuggs. Though comprehensive, it does include some misleading information re: difficulty, names, location. Additionally, as dense and maze-like as Smuggs is, it is hard to use said guidebook when navigating around up there. Better to find a local for the tour. Apr 14, 2010
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
I hope to add a bunch of climbs including pictures and more descriptive approaches (See the listing on Thump for what not to do...). Please feel free to correct any mistakes in names/grades I may make. Jul 25, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I agree with Chris. The NE Bouldering Guidebook was not compiled by locals (was added more as an after thought in my opinion) and so does contain some misleading information. That said, it's got most of the basics right though I think some grades are questionable in origin and a few of the names are wrong too. If I am correct I believe "The Green Egg" is called "Green Mountain Gringo" in the guidebook (is that where the surrogate name started?). In reality, there was never a "Green Mountain Gringo" problem on that boulder, it was always "The Green Egg" with the FA by John Sherman. Someone correct me if I am wrong.... Jul 26, 2010
Is there a way to organize this area by boulder?

I'd like to add some of the lines & variations that didn't make it into Kemple's guide. but organization by boulder would make it much easier to find the lines. Jun 25, 2012
MikeJ  
I agree the grades in the Kemple book are all incredibly inconsistent, and directions to boulders are often misleading. Still, better than nothing.

Best part of climbing at Smuggs: pissing off passing drivers. Some woman in a mini van called us "very stupid" as we finished a roadside V0... definitely the highlight of my weekend! :) Aug 7, 2012
boulderbum   NY
Colin you are wrong. Read stone crusade. VT gym gumbies called it green egg out of sheer ignorance. Mar 27, 2014
Boulderbum,
It's not out of sheer ignorance. The Vermonter who was with Sherman on the day of the send has misremembered the name and told the story repeatedly with the "Green Egg" name. Simple misremembering of something that happened years ago. Apr 3, 2014
Keyan P
Seattle, WA
Keyan P   Seattle, WA
Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! Jul 23, 2014
sifern  
I'm looking to do some bouldering at the boulders behind the main parking area, but the mountain road doesn't open for another few weeks. I'm coming from Burlington. Would it be better to park and walk to the are from the Smuggler's Notch side or the Stowe side? I'd like to do as little walking as possible. Apr 13, 2015
Sifern the Notch side might be a quicker hike, but the Stowe side has warmups on the hike in. You can stop at the roots boulder on the hike in and climb V0-6 before finishing the last 10-15 mins of the hike in. Apr 22, 2015
sifern  
Thanks Eddysamson! Apr 29, 2015
I have been recording a lot of video in the notch this summer, going to be releasing a series of videos of climbs from here. Here's the first one:

youtube.com/watch?v=yjZNTul… Aug 10, 2015
Heres some videos of me climbing some problems

youtube.com/watch?v=xNU3n-p…

youtube.com/watch?v=IqKfw8w…

youtu.be/9nPT0qMd2Z8 Oct 14, 2015
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Where is Quickbeam (5.11c) located? Aug 30, 2016
Dylan Oliver
Longmont CO
Dylan Oliver   Longmont CO
ENT gully, the Toughschist guidebooK or Rakkup app is the best source of Beta on the area. Aug 30, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
When does the road typically open? And when the road is closed, how long is the hike in? Apr 2, 2018
DRusso  
Christian:the road opening typically is based on snow melt but often it is sometime in mid April to early May. The hike in from the gate on the Jeffersonville (Smugglers Notch Resort) side is no more than 20 minutes and its easy as you are hiking on a paved road that slowly winds upward not particularly steep.

Hiking in from the Stowe Gate would be a slightly longer hike, with a steeper uphill climb to get to the top of the notch. Unless you were looking to hike in just for the Roots boulder, I would hike in from the Smuggs side. Apr 2, 2018

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