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Easy Gully Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Easy Gully Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Daddy Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Brazilian, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Deep End, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hummingbird Crack, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Leaver Beaver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Snowflake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	2,735 ft	834 m
GPS:	44.5569, -72.7982 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	10,910 total · 79/month
Shared By:	Greg Kuchyt on Aug 11, 2013
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

While Easy may be in the name of this gully's buttress, easy is not the main adjective to describe the established lines here. With no route under 5.9+, it's clear that it is not a destination for inexperienced climbers (if the additional complications of the alpine-esque experience of Smuggler's Notch were not enough...)
The rock is generally sound and is similar to the nearby climbing in the Bolton area. However, since these routes see little traffic comparatively do not expect the same experience as a developed and trafficked crag like Lower/Upper West. Holds will be dirty, there will be loose rock, etc.

Getting There

From the main parking area and the stone hut at the left (towards Stowe) end, hike steeply uphill for 5-10 minutes trending left of a clear gully and veering to avoid the steepest areas. This will eventually spit you out on a platform of large boulders in a wide open gully. From here you will have a clear view of the cliff. Hike up the loose scree/talus in the gully picking the easiest line (generally staying to the left). One you're approximately 150ft from the right side of the buttress, look for a boulder about the size of a couch on the left side of the gully. Immediately before the boulder you should find a faint trail that leads up through the vegetated ridge that extends down from the right side of the buttress. this will lead you to an exposed slide and the cliff in the area of Leaver Beaver. Contour the cliff to reach the lines to the left of this.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Easy Gully Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 5 ● The Brazilian Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 10 ● The Hummingbird Crack Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 14 ● The Deep End Sport 4 pitches