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Routes in Easy Gully Buttress

Deep End, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummingbird Crack, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snowflake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 390 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dave Furman, Travis Peckham - July 6 2003
Page Views: 648 total, 12/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 11, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

This is only for the first two pitches, I'll update with more complete information when I go back to finish the route. If you have better info for pitches 3 & 4, PM me.

P1 (5.11/5.11-): Clip the first bolt (from the ground?) and climb steeply to the base of the roof. fire out the roof on good holds and then figure out the exit strategy before the gas runs out. (I found the 4th bold to be oddly placed for where the route seemed to go). Above the roof, engaging face climbing past a few bolts (and one chopped stud) leads to a spacious belay stance on a ledge with a fixed anchor.

P2 (5.10+): Move right and climb easily over stacked blocks and cut back left on the high angle ramp to a small roof, a groove, and a bolt. Make a reachy move (harder if short/lacking on reach) into the groove and follow bolts up to a sloping ledge. Step right and climb some fun face trending left to another sloping. Clip a stud poorly cinched over with a stopper and a frozen nut and then be happy to clip the next bolt which protects an awkward step right below the "plated roof" to a stance. Clip up and out of the roof system to a stance below the vegetated ledge. Make oddly unnerving moves topping out the vegetated ledge to a fixed anchor in a big block at the front of the vegetated ledge.

P3 (5.10+): doliver: "'...great face climbing with a couple cruxy mantle bulges ... 2 bolt anchor 10d "

P4 (5.10-): doliver: "Follows a few bolts up under the "diving boards" then pulls some wild moves up through them to a two bolt anchor on the top of the main diving board. 10a great view at top!"

Location

Start: About 100' down from the vegetated shoulder that bisects the base of the buttress. Look for an obvious 3 foot deep roof 20 feet up with a low bolt on its right side.
Descent: Single 60m rappel

Protection

Gear: 12 draws & stoppers, #2, and #3 camalot for P4 (per Peckham guide)

Photos

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I have not done this route in many years, but recall enjoying P1—go figure. The entire route was bolted on lead, most of it from free stances, which is why any bolts on that pitch may seem not in exactly the right place compared to a pre-rehearsed sport climb. Also, the stud without a hanger near the top of P1 actually never had a hanger that I’m aware of—I drilled that and for some reason botched it or dropped the hanger, or ??—don’t recall—but there is a sideways placement for a largish stopper at the same stance that we used, I recall it not being obvious but it got me up at the time and it’s the reason I never went back and added the hanger, I had actually intended to go back and remove the bolt entirely and just didn't have a good way to pull the stud. Jul 17, 2017
Derek Doucet  
 
With lots of options for gaining the big ledge between P2 and 3, there are some really fun link-ups as well. For example one can climb Leaver Beaver or Dave Furman's really cool route Beer Belly just to the right of it, then the money pitch of Big Daddy Arete, then walk left on the tree ledge to the start of p3 of The Deep End. You miss the awesome Deep End p2 this way, but those alternatives are awesome in their own right and make for super outings as well. Jul 7, 2017
Ira O
Hardwick, VT
 
Ira O   Hardwick, VT
 
My 2 cents: I thought the third pitch was as hard as the first. or maybe I was just more tired at that point. I personally liked the first pitch. I definetly prefer that to the first pitch of snowflake.

The bolt without the hanger seemed loose and scary to me, although I'm no expert. I put in a shitty nut to the left of it and equalized them. Also, the climbing there wasn't the hardest on the pitch but it was dripping wet, the only spot on the route with moisture, so it may be in that condition fairly often. And it could be a nasty-ish fall if the "protection" failed. But it is also true that that is part of the fun. All in all a pretty damn sweet climb. Jul 4, 2017
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
My guess, just checked to see if it fit (since visibly the standard 9/16" nut is a different outer diameter than the standard 17mm nut) and then it cross-threaded and got stuck. I say this because I basically did the exact same thing in my apartment. If you do the math, the thread pattern for 3/8-16 is like a few thousands of an inch off from 10mm x 1.5mm or something like that. So in this case it starts to thread initially, but then cross-threads. Sep 6, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
So to add a little more to the conversation about that bolt on P2. Greg, unfortunately, my partner yesterday assumed the nut on the bolt was mine and cleaned it. I didn't even realize it until we had gotten to the ground. So the bolt is again, just a protruding bolt with a nut on it.

My question is, why is there no hanger? If it was someone trying to re-tighten the bolt with the wrong sized nut, wouldn't there be a hanger?

In any event I'd agree the bolt doesn't protect any critical moves and I felt totally comfortable basically skipping it. It's Smuggs after all... Sep 6, 2016
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
Agreed with Derek, the first pitch is burly without much character. I think it should be possible to start as for Snowflake and just traverse across the P1 belay ledge to the the anchor above P1 of The Deep End. The step up to the base of Hummingbird Crack is a little funky so belaying across might be the best plan there.

So the questionable bolt is like the 9th bolt on P2. After looking at it, what I see is that someone tried to help out and put a new nut on it. Thing is, Fixe is a Spanish company and their tooling is for metric sizing. While they re-tool for the hole size difference, they don't re-tool the thread patterns so a 3/8" bolt still has a 10mm x 1.5mm thread pattern. Trying to put a standard 3/8" nut on these bolts will just cross-thread.

The bolt has a lot of axial play because the cone has loosened from the expansion sleeve (which is likely still seated) since their is nothing retaining the tension in the bolt (nut). So short story is likely the bolt is still functional in the hole. While it's not ideal to have the cinched stopper over it, I think it's also not life-threateningly dangerous.

Ideally it will eventually be replaced (re-using the existing hole) but given the already adventurous nature of Notch climbing, the fact that the bolt isn't in a critical protection point given the grade of the climbing in respect to the grade of that pitch, and the points outlined above it's not on *my* immediate replacement list.

For what it's worth, I also don't think it will be especially easy to pull that bolt. Likely one will need to use vise grips in order to remove the cross-threaded nut. Then likely one would need to use a thread repair die to re-cut the threads. Then you would be able to spin or funk the bolt, but I think funking would quickly show that the sleeves are engaged and you'd have to resort to damaging the sleeves by spinning with a drill. Sep 5, 2016
Derek Doucet  
 
I don't much care for the first pitch myself, but the rest of the route is fantastic. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 all feature cool climbing, great position, and lots of variety. The top out at the diving board is wild. I'd call it a 1-star first pitch, but it's well worth it to gain the next 3 which I'd give 4 stars for sure. Sep 5, 2016
doliver
 
doliver  
 
The manky bolt on the 2nd pitch is really the only detracting quality to this climb every pitch has great climbing and the top out view is stellar. The bolt with the nut hanger is pretty bad, halfway out the hole and free spinning, could probably be ripped straight out with a funkness. There's another bolt not far away but would be a easy fix and would make this section way less unnerving. Aug 29, 2016