Leaver Beaver

Face climb straight up on fair rock past a couple of horizontals offering little protection to gain the bottom of a right to left rising ramp at 15’. Pad up the ramp past a rusty angle (placed on the FA ~15+ years ago) to easy climbing to a bolt. Continue more or less straight up, aiming for the obvious steep hanging corner directly above, passing 2 more bolts and some surprisingly puzzling moves along the way. From the base of the corner, step right on to the clean and deceptively steep face, then pull straight up on great rock, crisp edges, and powerful moves past 2 bolts. At the top of the face, clip a final bolt (tough to see from below) and decipher a difficult sequence to gain a secure ledge, then traverse the ledge right 15’ to the anchor on Big Daddy Arete. The second should consider getting established on this ledge before unclipping the final bolt or risk an ugly swing. A great pitch and excellent link up combined with P2 of Big Daddy Arete (5.8+, pg13) to gain the midway ledge beneath p3 of The Deep End. 

Start at the right side of the Deep End Buttress, directly below the striking left facing hanging corner at 60’. The right to left rising ramp which begins at 15’ is another landmark. The bolts on the right wall of the hanging corner are visible from below. 

Bolts and one old pin. One could perhaps find a funky cam placement or two before the pin, and it’s also possible to place a couple of pieces (blue / yellow Master Cam and a red Camalot to offer the 2nd some protection from the swing if they blow it after unclipping the final bolt. The Big Daddy Arete anchor has maillions and leavers for the rap. A single 60m rope is fine.