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Routes in Elephant's Head Buttress

Elephants Head Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Elevation: 2,506 ft
GPS: 44.553, -72.794 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,322 total, 87/month
Shared By: doliver on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

Description

This massive buttress towers over rt 108 and holds some of smuggs most spectacular rock climbing. With climbs ranging from classic 5.9+ adventure routes to challenging multi-pitch sport climbs. Committing climbing on less than ideal rock means Elephants Head isn't a beginners area, but those up for the challenge will have an adventure like no other on the steep cracks and faces Elephants Head has to offer. Many of the routes are steeper than they appear.

From left to right:

Still in Ramadi (11a, 10c)
Airavata (11a, 10c, 11b, 12b)
Elephant's Head Crack (5.8, 5.9+, 5.9)
True North (10b, 11c, 11c)
Ganesh (10b, 10c, 12b, 10d)
Elephantitis (11b)

Getting There

Locate the climbers trail just above the hair pin turn. Take this steep trail up to a loose rock gully that takes you up to the base of the buttress.

Watch out for stinging nettles close to the road!

1 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Elephant's Head Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Elephants Head Crack
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Elephants Head Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
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Photos

- No Photos -
Jon.R  
On the third pitch of Ganesh today, there were somewhere on the order of 20-40 yellow jackets/ wasps on the route. I bailed before getting a chance to see where the nest was, but it was likely near the overlap 2/3 of the way up the pitch. Sep 24, 2017
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Saw a pretty impressive route on the right facing side of Elephant Head, on the left side of Ragna Rock (ice/mixed).
A bunch of draws just hanging there. Feb 21, 2017

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