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Elephants Head Crack
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 8
votes
Routes in Elephant's Head Buttress
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Airavata S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Elephants Head Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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True North T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | FA Adi Joerg circa 1964 just before Fritz Weissner could make a successful accent. FFA John Bouchard, Fall 1973 |
| Page Views: | 3,053 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Oliver on Sep 6, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
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Description
The obvious crack line that shoots straight up the Buttress to the nice grassy ledge just below the summit.
There is a 2-bolt anchor on the starting ledge to avoid falling down the eroded gully as the ledge is very small.
P.1 (5.8)
Climb up the crack that starts off of the small grassy ledge at the base the crack next to the eroded gully. Climb to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge on the left of the crack.
P.2 (5.9+)
Continue up the crack to a wild overhanging off-width with a fist crack in the back. Finesse your way up this using good feet on the right then delicately climb up and over loose block to gain the large comfy grassy ledge. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor for Airivata on the left end of the ledge.
P.3 (5.9)
Originally unprotected but has seen some bolts added over the years. Difficult mantle to gain the summit follow the bolt line ten feet right of the Airivata anchor.
Rap off trees back to ledge then either do a single double (60m) rope rappel back to ledge or a couple single 60m rappels down Airivata
There is a 2-bolt anchor on the starting ledge to avoid falling down the eroded gully as the ledge is very small.
P.1 (5.8)
Climb up the crack that starts off of the small grassy ledge at the base the crack next to the eroded gully. Climb to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge on the left of the crack.
P.2 (5.9+)
Continue up the crack to a wild overhanging off-width with a fist crack in the back. Finesse your way up this using good feet on the right then delicately climb up and over loose block to gain the large comfy grassy ledge. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor for Airivata on the left end of the ledge.
P.3 (5.9)
Originally unprotected but has seen some bolts added over the years. Difficult mantle to gain the summit follow the bolt line ten feet right of the Airivata anchor.
Rap off trees back to ledge then either do a single double (60m) rope rappel back to ledge or a couple single 60m rappels down Airivata
Photos
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