Elevation: 1,410 ft
GPS: 44.42, -72.902 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 104,462 total · 673/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.

Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.

Tough Schist Guidebook

Climbing After Rain

With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.

Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:

It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase

Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:

Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles

Getting There

Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the old Long Trail intersection on the left. Park on the right or on the left a bit further down.

Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 38
The 5.7+ Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 47
The 5.7 Corner
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 56
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Private Property
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
Stone Staircase
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Peachy Canoodle
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Dr. Dias
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
The Rose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
Trespassing
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 50
Fresh Meat
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 27
Rented Mule
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Paradox
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 19
Normandy
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Mal Bouche
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The 5.7+ Corner E - Lower Tier
 38
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The 5.7 Corner E - Lower Tier
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Chockstone (Ledangier) C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 56
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Private Property B - Upper Tier - Left…
 60
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Staircase E - Lower Tier
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Peachy Canoodle E - Lower Tier
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dr. Dias C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Rose F - N End
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Trespassing B - Upper Tier - Left…
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fresh Meat E - Lower Tier
 50
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rented Mule E - Lower Tier
 27
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Thorn F - N End
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Paradox E - Lower Tier
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Normandy E - Lower Tier
 19
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mal Bouche C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Upper West »

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