Elevation: 1,410 ft
GPS: 44.42, -72.902 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68,607 total · 501/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Today
82°F - 60°F 28°C - 16°C
Mon
74°F - 56°F 23°C - 13°C
Tue
71°F - 52°F 22°C - 11°C
Wed
70°F - 53°F 21°C - 12°C
Thu
75°F - 57°F 24°C - 14°C
Fri
79°F - 61°F 26°C - 16°C

Description

Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.

Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.

Tough Schist Guidebook

Climbing After Rain

With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.

Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:

It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase

Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:

Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles

Getting There

Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the old Long Trail intersection on the left. Park on the right or on the left a bit further down.

Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.

51 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 33
The 5.7 Corner
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 43
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Private Property
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Stone Staircase
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Peachy Canoodle
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Dr. Dias
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
The Rose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Trespassing
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Fresh Meat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Paradox
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 4
Bilateral symmetry
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Normandy
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Professor Booty
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Mal Bouche
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The 5.7 Corner E - Lower Tier
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Chockstone (Ledangier) C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 43
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Private Property B - Upper Tier - Left…
 49
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Staircase E - Lower Tier
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Peachy Canoodle E - Lower Tier
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dr. Dias C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Rose F - N End
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Trespassing B - Upper Tier - Left…
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fresh Meat E - Lower Tier
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Thorn F - N End
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Paradox E - Lower Tier
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bilateral symmetry E - Lower Tier
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Normandy E - Lower Tier
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Professor Booty A - Booty Wall Area
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Mal Bouche C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Upper West »

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