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Upper West Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Upper West

A - Booty Wall Area 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

B - Upper Tier - Left End 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

C - Upper Tier - Right End 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

D - Hidden Ledge 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

E - Lower Tier 5 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22

F - North End 7 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

G - Alias Wall 7 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,410 ft	430 m
GPS:	44.41989, -72.90184 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	153,025 total · 756/month
Shared By:	Kristen Fiore on Apr 22, 2008
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.

Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.

Tough Schist Guidebook

Climbing After Rain

With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.

Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:

It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase

Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:

Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles

Getting There/Parking

PLEASE NOTE AS OF May 19, 2021: "No Parking on travelled portion of the road" signs have been added near the trailhead to Upper West. Please ensure your car is entirely off the road. CRAG-VT is working with the Town of Bolton to mitigate further closures and develop a plan for future parking access.

Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the old Long Trail intersection on the left. Park on the right or on the left a bit further down.

Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 63 ● The 5.7+ Corner Trad E - Lower Tier
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 70 ● The 5.7 Corner Trad E - Lower Tier
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 81 ● Chockstone (Ledangier) Trad C - Upper Tier - Righ…
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 84 ● Private Property Sport B - Upper Tier - Left…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 29 ● Dr. Dias Trad C - Upper Tier - Righ…
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 105 ● The Rose Trad F - N End
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 92 ● Fresh Meat Sport E - Lower Tier
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 57 ● The Thorn Trad F - N End
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 8 ● Donkey Index Sport F - N End
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 75 ● Paradox Sport E - Lower Tier
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 26 ● Normandy Sport E - Lower Tier
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 7 ● Professor Booty Sport A - Booty Wall Area
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 7 ● Mal Bouche Trad C - Upper Tier - Righ…
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 21 ● Featherweight Champion Sport C - Upper Tier - Righ…
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 4 ● GNR Sport F - N End