All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area

Upper West Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Upper West

A - Booty Wall Area 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

B - Upper Tier - Left End 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

C - Upper Tier - Right End 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

D - Hidden Ledge 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

E - Lower Tier 5 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

F - North End 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

G - Alias Wall 5 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Elevation:	1,410 ft
GPS:	44.42, -72.902 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	104,462 total · 673/month
Shared By:	Kris Fiore on Apr 22, 2008
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.

Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.

Tough Schist Guidebook

Climbing After Rain

With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.

Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:

It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase

Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:

Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles

Getting There

Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the old Long Trail intersection on the left. Park on the right or on the left a bit further down.

Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 38 ● The 5.7+ Corner Trad E - Lower Tier
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 47 ● The 5.7 Corner Trad E - Lower Tier
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 56 ● Chockstone (Ledangier) Trad C - Upper Tier - Righ…
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 60 ● Private Property Sport B - Upper Tier - Left…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 58 ● Stone Staircase Sport E - Lower Tier
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 45 ● Peachy Canoodle Sport E - Lower Tier
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 19 ● Dr. Dias Trad C - Upper Tier - Righ…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 56 ● The Rose Trad F - N End
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 44 ● Trespassing Sport B - Upper Tier - Left…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 50 ● Fresh Meat Sport E - Lower Tier
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 27 ● Rented Mule Sport E - Lower Tier
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 27 ● The Thorn Trad F - N End
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 39 ● Paradox Sport E - Lower Tier
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 19 ● Normandy Sport E - Lower Tier
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Mal Bouche Trad C - Upper Tier - Righ…