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Areas in Upper West

Alias Wall 5 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Booty Wall Area 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hidden Ledge 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lower Tier 5 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
North End 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Upper Tier - Left End 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Upper Tier - Right End 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Upper West Bolton Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 1,410 ft
GPS: 44.42, -72.902 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 39,434 total, 336/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

Description

Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.

Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.

Tough Schist Guidebook

Climbing After Rain



With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.

Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:

It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase

Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:

Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles

Getting There

Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the Long Trail intersection on the left. Hike along the long trail crossing a stream using rocks or a fallen log. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
The Bookend
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Private Property
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Staircase
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dr. Dias
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Rose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trespassing
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fresh Meat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Donkey Index
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paradox
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Bilateral symmetry
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Normandy
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Professor Booty
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mal Bouche
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Bookend Lower Tier 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Chockstone (aka:Captain's C… Upper Tier - Right End 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Private Property Upper Tier - Left End 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Staircase Lower Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dr. Dias Upper Tier - Right End 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Rose N End 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Trespassing Upper Tier - Left End 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fresh Meat Lower Tier 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Thorn N End 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Donkey Index N End 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Paradox Lower Tier 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bilateral symmetry Lower Tier 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Normandy Lower Tier 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Professor Booty Booty Wall Area 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Mal Bouche Upper Tier - Right End 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Upper West »

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Those directions would be much better if they said "Drive past Lower West Bolton to the Long Trail" and also included the fact that the approach is a solid ten to fifteen minute hike. Definitely not complaining as this is a solid crag, but I spent valuable time trying to find it. Sep 8, 2013
It's now called "The Petal".

It was first climbed in the early 90's perhaps, on TR. More recently, 3 or 4 years ago as Chris stated, it was bolted (somewhat controversially), and subsequently led cleanly. I am unsure of who bolted it. Somewhat dubious getting to the first bolt.....and yes, mid to hard 5.12 with some long moves and quite sustained. Apr 3, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
The route is mid- to hard 5.12, and it went up about 3 years ago. Can't recall the name, though. Apr 1, 2012
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
Does anyone know about the bolted route in between the rose and the thorn? I did not notice it before, what does it go at and when was it put up? Mar 20, 2012
Hi Gabe,

No formal topos are available at the moment, but a guidebook of Vermont rock is nearing completion and will feature the Bolton area prominently. Upper Upper will certainly be included.

Upper Upper (AKA Doube Upper) West is just a bit further up Bolton Notch Road from the Upper West pulloff. You park at the obvious Preston Pond Trailhead, on the left as you're headed up the Notch Rd.

FYI, Upper Upper is often subject to peregrine nesting closures in the spring. I haven't heard whether or not the birds are nesting up there this year, but it will likely be posted at the trailhead if they are. It's a cool area, with medium angle, mixed gear and bolt protected face climbing, mostly in the 5.8-5.10 range. Rock quality is only fair for the most part, but the positions are nice and exposed, and there are some quite nice routes. Apr 18, 2011
Hey Derek? You seem to know alot about the history of the routes. I am one of those new guys to this area, and was curious if you knew of any topos for any of the areas? Or is it all just by word of mouth? I have also read about Upper Upper West Bolton, is this just a section of Upper or is it a completely different area?

thanks
g Apr 14, 2011
The true name of the route sometimes referred to as "Corkscrew" is "Breaking and Entering", FA Paul Hansen and Dave Furman. If you climb the corner, the entire route is about 5.8. If you climb the face, it's perhaps .9+ or so.

It's Not a Cruise (aka Home Depot) is the farthest left route, on the small wall at the left end of the cliff, and is indeed tricky 5.9, FA Kristian Barrowman and June Mendell . At the right end of the same wall is True Value,FA Travis Peckham and Alden Pellet, 5.10. Feb 1, 2011
DWABS  
I've been here many times and am still confused about a lot of the names and grades of various climbs. Two are of particular interest to me and am wondering if anyone can help me out..

The first climb is located at the farthest left side of the crag on a small wall. There are two bolted climbs. I'm wondering about the one on the left. There's four bolts to the anchor on this face climb. I have an old piece of paper that calls this "Home Depot" and grades it 5.9. I feel as if this grade is pretty solid for the climb. Any opinions?

The second is around the corner from these climbs and starts on an arete to the right of a corner with four bolts and then up to a big grassy ledge. You then climb another face with wavy features four bolts up to a chain anchor. The paper I have doesn't have a name but I've heard it called "Corkscrew" and is graded 5.10a, I've heard it called 5.7 or 5.8 but am assuming that is if you climb the dirty corner itself instead of the arete. I feel though that the upper face is harder than a 5.8 in itself.

I'm going to post these routes up on the site as the guide I have says, but I'd like opinions or any beta anyone has. Jan 3, 2011

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