Elevation: 1,410 ft
GPS: 44.41989, -72.90184
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 151,382 total · 806/month
Shared By: Kristen Fiore on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.

Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.

Tough Schist Guidebook

Climbing After Rain

With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.

Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:

It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase

Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:

Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles

Getting There/Parking

PLEASE NOTE AS OF May 19, 2021: "No Parking on travelled portion of the road" signs have been added near the trailhead to Upper West. Please ensure your car is entirely off the road. CRAG-VT is working with the Town of Bolton to mitigate further closures and develop a plan for future parking access.

Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the old Long Trail intersection on the left. Park on the right or on the left a bit further down.

Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 55
The 5.7+ Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 62
The 5.7 Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 70
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
Breaking and Entering
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
Beginner's Luck
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
Private Property
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Stone Staircase
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 67
Peachy Canoodle
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Trespassing
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 94
The Rose
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 81
Fresh Meat
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 49
Rented Mule
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 49
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
Paradox
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Featherweight Champion
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The 5.7+ Corner E - Lower Tier
 55
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The 5.7 Corner E - Lower Tier
 62
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Chockstone (Ledangier) C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 70
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Breaking and Entering B - Upper Tier - Left…
 51
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Beginner's Luck E - Lower Tier
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Private Property B - Upper Tier - Left…
 75
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Staircase E - Lower Tier
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Peachy Canoodle E - Lower Tier
 67
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Trespassing B - Upper Tier - Left…
 52
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Rose F - N End
 94
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Fresh Meat E - Lower Tier
 81
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rented Mule E - Lower Tier
 49
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Thorn F - N End
 49
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Paradox E - Lower Tier
 67
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Featherweight Champion C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper West »

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