Upper West Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 1,410 ft |
GPS: | 44.42, -72.902 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 104,462 total · 673/month |
Shared By: | Kris Fiore on Apr 22, 2008 |
Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore |
Description
Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.
Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.
Tough Schist Guidebook
Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:
It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase
Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:
Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles
Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.
Tough Schist Guidebook
Climbing After Rain
With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:
It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase
Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:
Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles
Getting There
Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the old Long Trail intersection on the left. Park on the right or on the left a bit further down.
Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.
Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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