Upper West Climbing

I've been here many times and am still confused about a lot of the names and grades of various climbs. Two are of particular interest to me and am wondering if anyone can help me out..

The first climb is located at the farthest left side of the crag on a small wall. There are two bolted climbs. I'm wondering about the one on the left. There's four bolts to the anchor on this face climb. I have an old piece of paper that calls this "Home Depot" and grades it 5.9. I feel as if this grade is pretty solid for the climb. Any opinions?

The second is around the corner from these climbs and starts on an arete to the right of a corner with four bolts and then up to a big grassy ledge. You then climb another face with wavy features four bolts up to a chain anchor. The paper I have doesn't have a name but I've heard it called "Corkscrew" and is graded 5.10a, I've heard it called 5.7 or 5.8 but am assuming that is if you climb the dirty corner itself instead of the arete. I feel though that the upper face is harder than a 5.8 in itself.

I'm going to post these routes up on the site as the guide I have says, but I'd like opinions or any beta anyone has. Jan 3, 2011

The true name of the route sometimes referred to as "Corkscrew" is "Breaking and Entering", FA Paul Hansen and Dave Furman. If you climb the corner, the entire route is about 5.8. If you climb the face, it's perhaps .9+ or so.

It's Not a Cruise (aka Home Depot) is the farthest left route, on the small wall at the left end of the cliff, and is indeed tricky 5.9, FA Kristian Barrowman and June Mendell . At the right end of the same wall is True Value,FA Travis Peckham and Alden Pellet, 5.10. Feb 1, 2011

Hey Derek? You seem to know alot about the history of the routes. I am one of those new guys to this area, and was curious if you knew of any topos for any of the areas? Or is it all just by word of mouth? I have also read about Upper Upper West Bolton, is this just a section of Upper or is it a completely different area?

thanks
g Apr 14, 2011

Hi Gabe,

No formal topos are available at the moment, but a guidebook of Vermont rock is nearing completion and will feature the Bolton area prominently. Upper Upper will certainly be included.

Upper Upper (AKA Doube Upper) West is just a bit further up Bolton Notch Road from the Upper West pulloff. You park at the obvious Preston Pond Trailhead, on the left as you're headed up the Notch Rd.

FYI, Upper Upper is often subject to peregrine nesting closures in the spring. I haven't heard whether or not the birds are nesting up there this year, but it will likely be posted at the trailhead if they are. It's a cool area, with medium angle, mixed gear and bolt protected face climbing, mostly in the 5.8-5.10 range. Rock quality is only fair for the most part, but the positions are nice and exposed, and there are some quite nice routes. Apr 18, 2011

Does anyone know about the bolted route in between the rose and the thorn? I did not notice it before, what does it go at and when was it put up? Mar 20, 2012

The route is mid- to hard 5.12, and it went up about 3 years ago. Can't recall the name, though. Apr 1, 2012

It's now called "The Petal".

It was first climbed in the early 90's perhaps, on TR. More recently, 3 or 4 years ago as Chris stated, it was bolted (somewhat controversially), and subsequently led cleanly. I am unsure of who bolted it. Somewhat dubious getting to the first bolt.....and yes, mid to hard 5.12 with some long moves and quite sustained. Apr 3, 2012

Those directions would be much better if they said "Drive past Lower West Bolton to the Long Trail" and also included the fact that the approach is a solid ten to fifteen minute hike. Definitely not complaining as this is a solid crag, but I spent valuable time trying to find it. Sep 8, 2013