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Routes in North End

Donkey Index S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thorn, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,834 total · 32/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jan 23, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

The Thorn sits conveniently to the right, and uphill to its sister route, The Rose. This classic finger/thin hand crack climb is quite the gem that packs some very bouldery and sustained climbing into its short length.
The route begins easily enough on juggy flakes that jog up and slightly right to a vertical, thin hands section that widens slightly at its top. at the top of the crack, break left on a hard boulder problem that guards the final, short fist-sized crack.

Top out on semi-insecure moves to a slab with a tree directly in front of you. The tree is affixed with a cable anchor.

Location [Edit]

Uphill and to the right of the Rose.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot will suffice.

Photos

- No Photos -
Derek Doucet
  5.10+
Derek Doucet  
  5.10+
A fine variation known as the "The Prick Finish" breaks right, roughly where the original route steps left, and hand traverses along an obvious finger crack up and right to the top. .11bish, and pumpy. Very nice! Jan 25, 2011
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
5.11a/b
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
5.11a/b
Tried it once when it was a little wet and it and it slapped me around like a killer whale with a baby seal. I barely made it to the anchor. Gear felt a little tricky on this one in some parts as the crack is a little hollowed out. May 6, 2012
june m
elmore, vt
june m   elmore, vt
there is a new bolted anchor Aug 9, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
What an awesome route! Steep jugs start things off, and the delicious positive finger locks got me hooting and hollering after the tough (but short) thin hands section. Good active rests can be found on hand jams and locks for the middle part of the route, better use em cuz the bouldery top is physical and committing.

Gear is there for the whole route, some sections the rock sounded a bit hollow--not having taken many falls on cams in schist I wasn't sure how trustworthy some of the placements were, but the pro rating is a G for sure. gear available at every stance so just sew it up if you're scared like I was (first 5.11 trad send). A good route for breaking into the grade with positive locks, good jams and clean falls. 10d/11a?


GEAR BETA SPOILER ALERT: Climbed this on a mostly single rack, I brought/placed extra 0.5 and 0.75 BD Camalots (sewed it up) though with more nut placements I'm sure it goes on a single rack to #3. Sep 25, 2014
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.11a
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
  5.11a
The much disputed anchors on The Thorn have been moved up and back and replaced with glue-ins. I noticed the stud on one of the bolts on The Thorn was spinning in its hole and could not be tightened so I took the opportunity to move the anchors. I believe it was a clean job and the old studs were cut, hammered in, and patched with glue. In my opinion they are as close to invisible as they can be. The new bolts are beefy 12mm glue-ins that can be reached without using the tree and cannot be clipped while climbing without topping out. Win-win. One of the quick links on the old hangers was rusted shut so I'll put a new one on next time I'm up there.

Old broken anchor bolt: youtu.be/tqGqymr7jgE

Old anchor location:
Oct 3, 2015
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Edit: Now having fully read your comment Kris...

If it was a spinner and a wedge bolt (which it looks like in the video) the hole probably wasn't cleaned enough and debris clogged the sleeve/cone interface. Maybe the bolt wasn't torqued properly either and the load/unload cycle of lowers/raps loosened up the expansion collar. Those would be typical causes of a spinner for such a new bolt. It would be interesting to know if the bolt ever tightened properly or was a spinner at installation. Regardless, it's an academic issue at this point. Thanks for that.

The fact that the bolt has all the tensile play is interesting. That makes me believe that the expansion sleeve is stuck and the stud is what is moving. Maybe a lot of causes there. Old drill bit maybe. Fixe supposedly sent out a batch of 10mm bolts to people who ordered 3/8" bolts (9.5mm). Maybe that was one of the bad batch. Hard to know without more info that is really all irrelevant now that it has been replaced.

I can give you some stainless links and rings for the new bolts if you want. PM me. Oct 5, 2015
Derrek Anderson
Albany, NY
Derrek Anderson   Albany, NY
Chris-
Thanks for cleaning that anchor up, moving the bolts up and back is the way to go IMO. As you said, solves both issues while providing relief to the tree. Glue-ins seem logical as well.
BTW-Psyched to check out the October Wall routes.

Interesting thing about the spinner is that when I removed the bolts on the Rose, one of the bolts was indeed spinning and had a decent amount of lateral wiggle in the hole. Surely could have been caused by a variety of things. Guess we will never know for sure.

What's up Greg!
I appreciate your insightful comments and believe they are very relevant!
Again, very glad these were removed and replaced
Big Thanks to you both for your efforts at the local VT crags and beyond, greatly appreciated! Jan 25, 2016

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