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Routes in E - Lower Tier

5.7 Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
5.7+ Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Against The Grain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilateral symmetry T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Fresh Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kontos Sport Route, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lorax, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mind the 'Mudgeon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic Glory S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Normandy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompa Loompa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paradox S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peachy Canoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Public Property S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rented Mule S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 1,711 total · 24/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 25, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Route Description

A solid contender for hardest 10d in Bolton, and certainly a proud line up a wave-like arete.

Start on the left-hand side of the arete that forms "Against The Grain" on a smattering of positive, crystalline edges. This route requires a wealth of rock craft--edging, steep face climbing, route finding (this is Bolton, after all!), and endurance. Though this route is broken up a bit, the pump clock has the tendency to "time out" on some folks who don't make use of the rests wisely.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts

Photos

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Keyan P
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Keyan P   Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont... Nov 27, 2012
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.11a
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.11a
really fun climb with a good mixture of holds on really steep slightly overhanging climbing, but it defiantly gets you a really good pump going. Pretty sure the route was put up not to long ago but I would be wary of the cordelette at the anchor when lowering . Tough Schist also says 11a May 27, 2013
Derek Doucet
  5.10c/d
Derek Doucet  
  5.10c/d
Paradox is a relatively recent addition, but that cordalette is vintage. It's actually there for Against the Grain which is a much older route, and has been in place for quite a while. Paradox really needs its own independent anchor. May 27, 2013
Derek Doucet
  5.10c/d
Derek Doucet  
  5.10c/d
Paradox now has an independent anchor. To preserve the character of the top-out while still minimizing rope wear and providing a smooth pull, it was placed high on the wall above the finishing ledge.

If this thing is 5.11, it's the easiest 5.11 in Bolton. Jul 21, 2013
john gregory
Lebanon, NH
john gregory   Lebanon, NH
Regular Rumney 5.11-12 leader. This felt harder than 10d-11a, especially after climbing the Fresh Meat 10b (adequately rated)right next door. Love the subjectivity of the grades, but this low-balling seems appropriate for Vermont. Regardless this is a great route with great moves and aesthetics(cliff arete). C,mon, it's bolted, go for it!! Sep 30, 2013
Rob DeBruyn
Burlington, VT
5.11a
Rob DeBruyn   Burlington, VT
5.11a
10d is a sandbag. 10c/d is silly.

Still a good climb, a step above the other admittedly few Bolton climbs I've been on. Jun 23, 2015
Bennett Lafond
Montpelier, VT
  5.11a
Bennett Lafond   Montpelier, VT
  5.11a
"A solid contender for hardest 10d"... because it's a solid 11a for sure, even by VT standards. Still, one of the cleanest and most interesting lines at Upper West. Sep 30, 2017

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