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Elevation: 505 ft 154 m
GPS: 44.3779, -72.88737
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Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 28, 2007 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

Located just 30 minutes from downtown Burlington, Bolton has some of the most extensive options for climbing in the Green Mountain State. If you are new to the area, it is advisable to check with the locals and with CRAG-VT (www.cragvt.org) before embarking on your own. Also, check out the guidebook Tough Schist by Travis Peckham. A new edition is due to be released in 2022!

The stone is green schist and runs the gamut of being extremely sound to being fairly chossy. Know that new routes often take a few years to settle as it's nearly impossible to properly clean some sections of rock. There are tremendous crack routes located here, as well as some amazing gear and mixed routes on the more remote buttresses scattered throughout the valley. There are also plenty of sport routes at Bolton Quarry, Upper West, and 82 Crag and peppered throughout the hills of Bolton. Those who travel here sometimes find Bolton sandbagged, and while it might be a little hard for the Northeast, it's worth noting that our schist is very difficult to read which takes getting used.

If you are amped to climb here, get in touch with some of the locals at one of the climbing spots in Burlington (Outdoor Gear Exchange, Petra Cliffs, or MetroRock) to get the local beta. I've overheard climbers at the local gym say there is no reason to travel outside of Bolton (or Vermont) to climb. This may be a little bit of hyperbole, but there certainly is plenty of stone and adventure to at least entertain the idea for quite a while.

Bolton Crags in a nutshell:

Lower West: Excellent toproping options and 5.10 trad climbs, though some tend to be somewhat PG13 as leads. 5 minute walk.

Upper West: Home to the two best cracks in Bolton and a wide range of sport climbing options from 5.8 to 5.12c. 25 minute hike.

Upper Upper West: Moderate Mecca. Easy sport to moderate trad. 15/20 minute hike.

Bolton Quarry: Moderate to hard sport climbing on mostly quarried rock. 2-5 minute walk.

Carcass Crag: Excellent sport climbing, business starts at 5.11 and goes to 5.12+. 20 minute hike.

82 Crag: Some of the best face climbing in Vermont. Tall 5.10/5.11 climbing and a steep wall of sport climbing up to mid-5.13. 35 minute hike.

Revolution Wall: Backwater climbing in the 5.10/5.11 ranges. 1 hour hike.

Bolton Dome: Newly opened in 2019, the Dome has almost everything. Trad 5.3 to Sport up to 5.13. 10 minute walk.

Bone Mountain: It doesn't get much more remote than this. Excellent trad, mixed, and sport lines 5.7 to 5.12. 90+ minute hike. Good luck.

Pit Crag: A small but fun crag with some good 5.11/5.12 sport climbing. 15 minute hike.

Bog Wall: Its other name is 5.8 wall so you do the math. 10 minute hike.

Getting There Suggest change

If coming from the north on Interstate 89 take the Richmond Exit (exit 11) and if you're coming from the south take exit 10 and continue towards Bolton on Route 2. Lower and Upper West Bolton climbing areas are located on Bolton Notch Rd while the Quarry, Carcass Crag, and 82 Crag are accessed from the top of Green Mountain Road. Bone Mountain is accessed via Bolton Valley Access Road.

617 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bolton Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 25
The Sharks Fin
Boulder
V5- 6C
 34
Kook
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 23
Family Picnic
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 77
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 39
The Politics of Dancing
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 98
The Rose
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 33
Truffle Hog
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Paradox
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 27
Interstate Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 70
Release the Hens
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 45
The Awesomest
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Before the Dawn
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Who's Your Daddy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Sharks Fin Bolton Bouldering > … > Boulders North > Shark Boulder
 25
V3 6A Boulder
Kook Bolton Bouldering > Bolton Notch Rd… > Kook Boulder
 34
V5- 6C Boulder
Family Picnic Bone Mountain > Main Cliff > B. Middle Cliff Routes
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Hush, Mama Thrush Lower W Bolton
 87
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chockstone (Ledangier) Upper West > C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 77
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
The Politics of Dancing 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
The Rose Upper West > F - N End
 98
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Truffle Hog 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall
 33
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Thorn Upper West > F - N End
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Paradox Upper West > E - Lower Tier
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Interstate Crack Bolton Dome > 06. Main Wall
 27
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad
Release the Hens Bolton Dome > 06. Main Wall
 70
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Awesomest Bolton Dome > 01. W Side
 45
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Before the Dawn Bolton Dome > 09. Dometop
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Who's Your Daddy Carcass Crag
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bolton Area »

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