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Areas in Bolton Area

82 Crag 16 / 16 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Bolton Notch Rd Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Bolton Quarry 3 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Bone Mountain 43 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 48
Carcass Crag 3 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Honey Hollow Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Lower West Bolton 18 / 0 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Upper Upper West Bolton 10 / 4 / 0 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 21
Upper West 16 / 31 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 50
Wolf Run Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Elevation: 505 ft
GPS: 44.378, -72.887 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 154,809 total, 1,279/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 28, 2007
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
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Description

Bolton Valley contains more than just what's available at Lower West Bolton. In fact, there are plenty of climbing areas in Bolton Valley, which is located just 25 minutes from downtown Burlington. Some of these areas are located on private property and thus contain sensitive access issues. If you are new to the area, it is HIGHLY advisable to check with the locals and with cragvt.org before embarking on your own. Also, check out the guidebook Tough Schist.

Nevertheless, when you finally figure out how to get to where you want to go, (and where NOT to go) climbing in and around Bolton Valley can keep one busy for quite a while. The stone is green schist and runs the gamut of being extremely sound to being extremely scary. There are tremendous crack routes located here, as well as some amazing gear and mixed routes on the more remote buttresses scattered throughout the valley. There are also plenty of sport routes at Bolton Quarry and 82 crag and peppered throughout the hills of Bolton Valley.

If you are amped to climb here, get in touch with some of the locals at one of the local climbing spots in Burlington (Outdoor Gear Exchange, EMS, Petra Cliffs, or MetroRock) to the local beta. I've overheard climbers at the local gym say there is no reason to travel outside of Bolton Valley (or Vermont) to climb. This may be a little bit of hyperbole, but there certainly is plenty of stone and adventure to at least entertain the idea for quite a while.

Getting There

If coming from Interstate 89 (north or south), take the Richmond Exit (exit 11) and head east on Route 2. Bolton is roughly 6 miles from the exit. Lower and Upper West Bolton climbing areas are located on Bolton Access Rd while the Quarry, Carcass Crag, and 82 Crag are accessed from the top of Green Mountain Road. Bone Mountain is accessed via Bolton Valley Access Road.

226 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bolton Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Family Picnic
Sport 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Harvest Moon
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Private Property
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flippin the bird
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Rose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
The Politics of Dancing
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Thorn
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The Cat's Ass
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mal Bouche
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The Doggfather
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Who's Your Daddy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Encryption
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Team America
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Family Picnic Bone Mtn > Main Cliff > B. Middle Cliff Routes 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Harvest Moon Lower W Bolton 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Chockstone (aka:Captain's C… Upper West > Upper Tier - Right End 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Hush, Mama Thrush Lower W Bolton 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Property Upper West > Upper Tier - Left End 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Flippin the bird Bone Mtn > Main Cliff > B. Middle Cliff Routes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Rose Upper West > N End 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Politics of Dancing 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
The Thorn Upper West > N End 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Cat's Ass Bolton Quarry > Cat's Ass Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Mal Bouche Upper West > Upper Tier - Right End 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Doggfather 82 Crag > 82 Steep Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Who's Your Daddy Carcass Crag 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Encryption 82 Crag > 82 Steep Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Team America 82 Crag > 82 Steep Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bolton Area »

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Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Thanks for posting this Adam. You beat me to it! This is one area I would stare at each time I drove by it, especially when driving south on 89. Soon, my wish to climb it will come true! Join crag-vt if you are not a member already! Sep 26, 2017
Bolton climbing could be getting even better with some help from the community. Check out the Crag VT website for information on the hopeful acquisition of Bolton Dome (AKA the trailer park crag). cragvt.org/boltondomeproject/ Sep 25, 2017
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
One other thing I think would be good is for folks to suggest grades as well. There are some routes at Bolton that are pretty sandbagged in my opinion and I am curious what other folks think. Sandbagging is to be expected to a degree in Vermont but I think we should also try to keep it within reason. I can think of at least 5 routes that I feel should be upgraded (some by more than one letter grade) where as I only know of one route in the area that I would recommend being downgraded. I could name some obvious routes but would rather wait and hear feedback from others. Jul 12, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Would be good to add new material here. Upper & Lower West as well have relatively few routes while Upper East has nothing. I noticed someone put up Carcass Crag (again). Hopefully it wont be taken down again unless there are access issues. Also, there is still more stuff up at 82 Crag plus. Chris, you know this area as well as anyone. I'll add more stuff soon as I can. Jul 12, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
David,

I agree with you. When it boils down to it, I don't really care one way or the other. Wheeler and the outlaying areas are, however, one of the best kept secrets in NE, without a doubt. Last time I was up there was about 2 years ago, and. upon your earlier recommendation, I did make it up to Eagle Point Buttress. We climbed the Eagle Point Crack, as well as TRing Hot Seat. Both phenomenal lines up some of the best granite around. I did not, however, make it up to the buttress (?) above the Kingdom Crack area. Next time... Apr 20, 2010
Hi Chris, Part of me does not care but the other part loves the adventure climbing aspect. In a previous post you mentioned splitter cracks at this chossy place. Did you find Eagle Point crag? It sounded like you got around the place a bit.
If you or Colin have any bouldering FA info i would like to get it for record keeping. Apr 20, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
"Looks like you have everything in Vermont covered. Not much more to add."--David Powers

Don't worry, David, Wheeler probably won't make it up here, anyway...it's way too chossy to warrant any attention anyway...(haha!) Apr 19, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
There's plenty more to add actually. Just can't do it all myself. I hope others contribute a bit too. Some areas that I would like to see routes/boulders added are:

Marshfield Ledge - Routes
Mt. Wheeler - Routes and Bouldering
Groton State Park - Bouldering and Routes at Owl's Head
Smuggler's Notch - Routes and Bouldering
Jamaica State Park (southern VT) - Bouldering

Climbing in Vermont is growing but I think we can manage it if we give folks a heads up on access issues and what not on here.

Sensitive access areas should not be posted. Apr 17, 2010
Looks like you have everything in Vermont covered. Not much more to add. Apr 17, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Chris,

I agree with you about the access sensitive area. I also agree that i am probably the best candidate to add these new areas/route (I am lazy however, only good at quippy comments). I disagree that the Quarry is a choss pile. Well, technically yes, most of it is but the truly chossy parts don't have any routes on them anyways. The Cat's Ass Wall and the first left-hand wall in the main quarry are both bullet hard, non-quarried schist all with good, short-but-stout sport climbing. Even some of the quarried rock has good climbing (There is a great 11a in the back there). 82 Crag is sick and is good as any wall at Rumney (just not as much of it or as condensed). Believe me, I used to laugh at the idea of placing Bolton up there with Rumney but I have since come around mostly due to the lack of crowds and some of the great new lines that have gone up (I am not smoking anything I swear!). Rumney has turned into an outdoor gym (too many climbers, too few routes) and I am way too much of a climbing hermit these days. Marshfield and Wheeler are also stellar crags but I am not as familiar with them. And then there is the bouldering which is as good as anywhere you'll find in New England imo (if you know where you are going). Viva La Ver-Mont! Apr 14, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
I think, because of sensitive access issues, at least one of the areas you mentioned (Carcass) shouldn't be added to the database just yet. The 82 Crag, Bolton Quarry (eh-hem, choss pile!!), Wheeler Mt., etc., etc. should be added to MP so long as there are no limiting circumstances that would otherwise tarnish VT's street cred. And I think you're the perfect suitor for this job, Colin!! Apr 11, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
It's about time we started adding some of our home grown Vermont routes/boulders into this web site. So many great routes and bouldering in the Bolton area as well as Marshfield ledge, The Notch, Groton and Mt. Wheeler - how come we don't have more Green Mountain rock climbing/bouldering listed here? Seriously, there are plenty of low quality crags and bouldering spots in other states that I hear about and see listed on Mountain Project and other climbing sites/media all the time (I'll keep my lips sealed on them for the moment). Arguably I am being a hypocrite since I could add them myself but I wouldn't want to steal the opportunity from another Vermont climber.... Apr 8, 2010

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