Elevation: 505 ft
GPS: 44.378, -72.887 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 472,962 total · 3,098/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 28, 2007 with improvements by Taylor D and 1 other
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Jason Hayden
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Located just 30 minutes from downtown Burlington, Bolton Valley has some of the most extensive options for climbing in the Green Mountain State. If you are new to the area, it is advisable to check with the locals and withcragvt.org before embarking on your own. Also, check out the guidebook Tough Schist by Travis Peckham.

The stone is green schist and runs the gamut of being extremely sound to being fairly chossy. Know that new routes often take a few years to settle as it's nearly impossible to properly clean some sections of rock. There are tremendous crack routes located here, as well as some amazing gear and mixed routes on the more remote buttresses scattered throughout the valley. There are also plenty of sport routes at Bolton Quarry, Upper West, and 82 Crag and peppered throughout the hills of Bolton Valley. Those who travel here sometimes find Bolton sandbagged, and while it might be a little hard for the Northeast, it's worth noting that our schist is very difficult to read which takes getting used.

If you are amped to climb here, get in touch with some of the locals at one of the climbing spots in Burlington (Outdoor Gear Exchange, Petra Cliffs, or MetroRock) to get the local beta. I've overheard climbers at the local gym say there is no reason to travel outside of Bolton Valley (or Vermont) to climb. This may be a little bit of hyperbole, but there certainly is plenty of stone and adventure to at least entertain the idea for quite a while.

Bolton Crags in a nutshell:

Lower West: Excellent toproping options and 5.10 trad climbs, though some tend to be somewhat PG13. 5 minute walk.
Upper West: Home to the two best cracks in Bolton and a wide range of sport climbing options from 5.8 to 5.12c. 25 minute hike.
Upper Upper West: Moderate Mecca. Easy sport to moderate trad. 15/20 minute hike.
Bolton Quarry: Moderate to hard sport climbing on mostly quarried rock. 2-5 minute walk.
Carcass Crag: Excellent sport climbing, business starts at 5.11 and goes to 5.12+. 20 minute hike.
82 Crag: Some of the best face climbing in Vermont. Tall 5.10/5.11 climbing and a steep wall of sport climbing up to mid-5.13. 35 minute hike.
Bolton Dome: Newly opened in 2019, the Dome has almost everything. Trad 5.3 to Sport in the mid 5.12+. 10 minute walk.
Bone Mountain: It doesn't get much more remote than this. Excellent trad, mixed, and sport lines 5.7 to 5.12. 90+ minute hike. Good luck.
Pit Crag: A small but fun crag with some good 5.11/5.12 sport climbing. 15 minute hike.
Bog Wall: Its other name is 5.8 wall so you do the math. 10 minute hike.

Getting There

If coming from the north on Interstate 89 take the Richmond Exit (exit 11) and if you're coming from the south take exit 10 and continue towards Bolton on Route 2. Lower and Upper West Bolton climbing areas are located on Bolton Notch Rd while the Quarry, Carcass Crag, and 82 Crag are accessed from the top of Green Mountain Road. Bone Mountain is accessed via Bolton Valley Access Road.

409 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bolton Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 35
The 5.7 Corner
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 53
Harvest Moon
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Mister Rogers
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 48
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Hush, Mama Thrush
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Private Property
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 50
Stone Staircase
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
A Minor
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
The Rose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 22
The Politics of Dancing
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Fresh Meat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Paradox
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
Release the Hens
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 23
The Awesomest
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The 5.7 Corner Upper West > E - Lower Tier
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Harvest Moon Lower W Bolton
 53
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Mister Rogers Bolton Dome > 8. Neighborhood Ledge
 33
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Chockstone (Ledangier) Upper West > C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 48
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Hush, Mama Thrush Lower W Bolton
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Property Upper West > B - Upper Tier - Left…
 53
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Staircase Upper West > E - Lower Tier
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Minor Lower W Bolton
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Rose Upper West > F - N End
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Politics of Dancing 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Fresh Meat Upper West > E - Lower Tier
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Thorn Upper West > F - N End
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Paradox Upper West > E - Lower Tier
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Release the Hens Bolton Dome > 5. Main Wall
 23
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Awesomest Bolton Dome > 1. W Side
 23
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
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