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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 160 ft
FA: Alden Pellet (equipper) FFA--Ivan Tighe
Page Views: 3,820 total · 38/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Access Issue: Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

Said by those who have climbed it to be the "Prince of Darkness" of the East. This route epitomizes sustained face climbing with killer exposure to boot.

Politics has a common start with "Crimp Chimp", then breaks hard left at the overlap/ledge until you are in front of the small birch tree. Take a deep breath, and make a quasi-committing move up to the first bolt. A fall from before clipping the first bolt would be less than ideal, so if one chooses, a yellow Alien can be placed from a comfortable, standing position in a small crack/pod to help tame the pucker effect before committing to the first, unprotected move to the first bolt off the ledge.

Either way, you'll then embark on an enjoyable, though repetitive, journey up the 85 degree face on some of the most impeccable stone in Vermont. A short but devious crux is encountered fairly low on the route, capped by several small runouts above. The runouts are all on very moderate/easy terrain, though, so there should be nothing to worry about.

Politics ends at a set of anchors on a comfortable ledge shared with the neighboring route to the right ("Crimp Chimp").

Two rappels with one 60 meter rope will get you down.

Location

At the mossy slab that starts just uphill and right from where the climbers trail meets the cliff.

Protection

15+ quickdraws, plus a yellow and green Alien for the horizontal below the fifth bolt.

Photos

Derek Doucet
  5.10a
Derek Doucet  
  5.10a
While Alden drilled this route, the actual FA was done by Ivan Tighe before the final one or two bolts were placed...he thought the route was complete. He was mistaken. Good thing he's solid at the grade! Aug 5, 2010
Trevor Burke
SF Bay Area
 
Trevor Burke   SF Bay Area
 
I found a #0.4 Camalot protected the short run-out in the lower 1/3 of the route. Don't need any more gear than that. Awesome, long line that gave my fingers a good workout. Felt it was getting a bit mossy, could maybe use some scrubbing May 5, 2015
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.10a PG13
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.10a PG13
Fantastic route! Just when you think your out of options, high step, trust that rubber and another crimp appears! Green/yellow alien size is nice for protecting the bottom section as Trevor mentions but clipping the bolt from the ledge with the tree is pretty smooth. A single rap with a 70m will just barley allow you to skirt off right. Apr 15, 2016
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
The anchor is about 20 ft down and left of the Chimp Crimp anchor in an alcove/left-facing corner. Jun 3, 2016

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