Elevation: 520 ft
GPS: 44.371, -72.858 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,126 total · 1,501/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Feb 1, 2018 with improvements by Max Kraft and 1 other
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Today
76°F - 57°F 24°C - 14°C
Thu
69°F - 56°F 21°C - 13°C
Fri
68°F - 51°F 20°C - 11°C
Sat
69°F - 52°F 21°C - 11°C
Sun
78°F - 56°F 26°C - 13°C
Mon
78°F - 63°F 26°C - 17°C
Access Issue: Parking and Dogs Details

Description

A historic, southfacing cliff with a 5-minute approach, tall climbing, and one of the most impressive boulders in New England. This cliff was closed for more than 20 years until the work of CRAG-VT opened it back to the public in 2019. Many excellent new bolted routes have filled out the once blank faces that denied ascentionists of the 80s and 90s and more are still being developed. With the new routes that have gone up this cliff now has the highest concentration of 5.12- routes in Vermont! Probably a crag best suited for the spring and fall, by June this cliff bakes in the sun and is unbearably hot in summer save for early mornings or the occasional cool day.

Early favorites are starting to emerge:

The Awesomest 5.11d
Wet Dream 5.10c
Two Thumbs Down 5.12a
Interstate 5.11b/c
Crimes of Omission 5.12b
Release the Hens 5.11c
Mister Rogers 5.7
Casual Collusion 5.10c
Lichenology 5.10a
Fire in the Hole 5.12a
Before the Dawn 5.12a

NOTE ON RATINGS: Many of the older routes described here are given ratings from the original topo (1980s) without personal confirmation so please be understanding if they aren't spot on (translation: sandbagged.)

As for the quality, we've spent many hours cleaning these routes but, of course, 20 years of inactivity has taken its toll. Bring a wire brush and help out the effort and be understanding that a 3-star route listed here may still need some work to be brought back to its deserving glory!

PARKING AND DOGS:


Sorry, friends, as of 6/17/19 no pets allowed.

Finally, please know that CRAG-VT is still making payments on this cliff. If you wish to contribute to the cause you can do so here!

Parking/Directions

***PLEASE FOLLOW THESE***

Park in either the Bolton Quarry at the top of Green Mountain Drive, or in the Smiley School Parking lot on Route 2. Walk east on Route 2 until you reach Champ Ln. Walk up Champ Ln. until you reach 122 Champ Ln. on your right, follow signs to the cliff.

47 Total Climbs

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Location: Bolton Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Bolton Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 6
The Country Doctor's Ramble
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Jamathon
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Mister Rogers
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Radical Sabbatical
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Batmobile
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Narrow Gauge
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Lichenology
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Welcome to Bolton
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Wet Dream
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Casual Collusion
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Release the Hens
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
The Awesomest
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Two Thumbs Down
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Before the Dawn
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Crimes of Omission
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Country Doctor's Ramble 1. W Side
 6
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Jamathon 1. W Side
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mister Rogers 8. Neighborhood Ledge
 16
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Radical Sabbatical 4. Railroad Ledge
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Batmobile 2. Bat Wall
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Narrow Gauge 2. Railroad Yard
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lichenology 8. Neighborhood Ledge
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Welcome to Bolton 1. W Side
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Wet Dream 2. Railroad Yard
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Casual Collusion 8. Neighborhood Ledge
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Release the Hens 5. Crime Scene Wall
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Awesomest 1. W Side
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Two Thumbs Down 5. Crime Scene Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Before the Dawn X. Dometop
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crimes of Omission 5. Crime Scene Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bolton Dome »

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