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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 1,068 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 28, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

2 pitches of dramatically different climbing.

The first pitch is quite nice, and gets better the higher you climb. It starts on a steep-ish leftward angling rail/flake (suspect rock), transitions into a nice bucket ladder with friendly pinches (rock quality gets a little better), and finishes with a more of the same to a semi-mantle move 10 ft. above your last bolt. Well-placed bolts protect the entire pitch, and an option yellow Alien 4 ft. below the anchor to keep the pucker factor low (5.8).

Off the belay, pitch two arcs out slightly right to the first bolt, then moves back left into an interesting scoop/right-facing corner (finger-sized cam, optional). At this point, the route continues straight up, remaining just right of "Arms Reduction", and toeing the edge of the sharp, airy arete. With its superb positioning and unlikely passage, this pitch checks in at low to mid- 5.10, depending on who you ask. With just draws, it protects reasonably well, though a finger-sized cam is welcomed.

2 rappels with a single 60 m. rope will get you down.

Location

10-15 ft. left of "Kid Charlemagne".

Protection

Draws, long slings, a .75 Cam, plus a few medium-sized nuts.

Photos

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TimVT
Burlington
  5.10a
TimVT   Burlington
  5.10a
Two great pitches in a row with really cool moves through the steeper section up top. Totally climbable on just the bolts if you're comfy at the grade, though a few small/med pieces will protect the slight runouts. Sep 23, 2015
TSluiter
Holland, VT
5.10a/b
TSluiter   Holland, VT
5.10a/b
Excellent route, first pitch and a half climbs nicely, nothing too commiting. The last piece up the steep section is awesome and takes a bit more out of you. Overall a great route! May 14, 2015
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
5.10-
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
5.10-
A sweet line with good rests throughout. Can be reasonably well protected just with draws-- since the face is so clean, there isn't much to hit if you lob off (I had to keep telling myself that during the lead). Memorable, committing moves on the top third of the route! Sep 2, 2013
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
I'd suggest 10b, but perhaps after climbing it a few more times, I'd agree on 10-. Compared to other 10as on the cliff, this rig seemed a little stout. Jul 30, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.10-
Derek Doucet  
  5.10-
What would you give it? Trav gives it .10a or maybe .10b at most in the new book. Seemed about right to me, but YMMV, I suppose. Whatever the grade, it sure is a fun one. Jul 29, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.10-
Derek Doucet  
  5.10-
Hi Chris,

In my opinion, this pitch is one of the very best at the 82, and high on my list of best moderate clip-ups anywhere. 5.10- PG. One could perhaps make it G-rated by carrying a midsize nut or two, but it is perfectly reasonable with just draws, including a couple of shoulder length rigs.

Finally, like almost all of the routes on the 82 main face, I highly recommend climbing Truffle Hog as a single, absolutely awesome 150' pitch. 15 or so draws / runners does the trick nicely. Judicious use of long runners essentially eliminates rope drag. Care should be taken when setting up the belay at the top. I'd recommend against just blindly heading to either the Arms Reduction bolts or the Year of the Dog rap tree. Belaying from either sets up your second for a potentially problematic (and rope-shredding) pendulum off the final moves, and there are better options readily available. Jul 29, 2012