Avg: 3.6 from 9 votes
Routes in 82 Main Wall
|Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,068 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Jul 28, 2012|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details
Follow the yellow bottle caps and pink flagging to ensure you remain on Crag-VT or Green Crow Logging property and not on private land.
Description2 pitches of dramatically different climbing.
The first pitch is quite nice, and gets better the higher you climb. It starts on a steep-ish leftward angling rail/flake (suspect rock), transitions into a nice bucket ladder with friendly pinches (rock quality gets a little better), and finishes with a more of the same to a semi-mantle move 10 ft. above your last bolt. Well-placed bolts protect the entire pitch, and an option yellow Alien 4 ft. below the anchor to keep the pucker factor low (5.8).
Off the belay, pitch two arcs out slightly right to the first bolt, then moves back left into an interesting scoop/right-facing corner (finger-sized cam, optional). At this point, the route continues straight up, remaining just right of "Arms Reduction", and toeing the edge of the sharp, airy arete. With its superb positioning and unlikely passage, this pitch checks in at low to mid- 5.10, depending on who you ask. With just draws, it protects reasonably well, though a finger-sized cam is welcomed.
2 rappels with a single 60 m. rope will get you down.
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