Elevation: 1,284 ft
GPS: 44.378, -72.86 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,258 total · 407/month
Shared By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

One of Bolton's finest areas.

The large cliff band about 25 minute walk uphill from the Bolton Quarry (see map). This cliff is home to some of the hardest, most bad-ass sport climbing in the state of Vermont. The 82 Crag has many climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12+ range. I would say it has some of the best 5.11's and 5.12's I have ever been on such as Arms Reduction (11b/c), Afro-Samurai (11d), the Doggfather (12b), Solarium (12b), Encryption (12c/d), Little Red Hen (12d). This crag has it all and the views are fantastic. A nice breeze tends to keep the 82 Crag a little cooler than others in the summer. It's about a 25 minute walk mostly uphill only if you don't get lost on the trails (otherwise could be quite a long hike). Try to check in here or with locals before you go to get some idea of where you are going.

Sub-areas include October Wall, reached during the approach to 82 Crag, and Chapel Crag, just above the Main Face.

Getting There

Park in the Bolton Quarry Parking lot and follow the WHITE line trail on the map provided (hopefully this will help). The red trail crosses private property.
There is a specific network of trails/logging roads that must be followed and I suggest using a GPS device your first time so you don't get too lost. For the upper part of the crag (i.e. Doggfather, Little Red Hen, Afro Samurai, Encryption) you must climb up a 5.4 choss pile with a fixed rope for about 30 feet to get to the base of it.

You can also follow the directions listed in Tough Schist.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 82 Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 20
Crimp Chimp
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 28
The Politics of Dancing
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Block Party
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Truffle Hog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Kid Charlemagne
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
War on Drugs
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Year of the Dog
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Arms Reduction
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
The Doggfather
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Solarium
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Beyond
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Enter the Dweezil
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Little Red Hen
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Encryption
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Team America
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crimp Chimp 82 Main Wall
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
The Politics of Dancing 82 Main Wall
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Block Party 82 Main Wall
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Truffle Hog 82 Main Wall
 23
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Kid Charlemagne 82 Main Wall
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
War on Drugs 82 Main Wall
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Year of the Dog 82 Main Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Arms Reduction 82 Main Wall
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Doggfather 82 Steep Wall
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Solarium 82 Steep Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Beyond 82 Steep Wall
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Enter the Dweezil 82 Steep Wall
 3
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Little Red Hen 82 Steep Wall
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Encryption 82 Steep Wall
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Team America 82 Steep Wall
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in 82 Crag »

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