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Areas in 82 Crag

82 Main Wall 7 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
82 Steep Wall 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Chapel Crag 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
October Wall 3 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Yawn Wall, The 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Description

One of Bolton's finest areas.

The large cliff band about 25 minute walk uphill from the Bolton Quarry (see map). This cliff is home to some of the hardest, most bad-ass sport climbing in the state of Vermont. The 82 Crag has many climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12+ range. I would say it has some of the best 5.11's and 5.12's I have ever been on such as Arms Reduction (11b/c), Afro-Samurai (11d), the Doggfather (12b), Solarium (12b), Encryption (12c/d), Little Red Hen (12d). This crag has it all and the views are fantastic. A nice breeze tends to keep the 82 Crag a little cooler than others in the summer. It's about a 25 minute walk mostly uphill only if you don't get lost on the trails (otherwise could be quite a long hike). Try to check in here or with locals before you go to get some idea of where you are going.

Sub-areas include October Wall, reached during the approach to 82 Crag, and Chapel Crag, just above the Main Face.

Getting There

Park in the Bolton Quarry Parking lot and follow the WHITE line trail on the map provided (hopefully this will help). The red trail crosses private property.
There is a specific network of trails/logging roads that must be followed and I suggest using a GPS device your first time so you don't get too lost. For the upper part of the crag (i.e. Doggfather, Little Red Hen, Afro Samurai, Encryption) you must climb up a 5.4 choss pile with a fixed rope for about 30 feet to get to the base of it.

You can also follow the directions listed in Tough Schist.

32 Total Climbs

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Location: 82 Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 82 Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Incredible Walk
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
The Politics of Dancing
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Block Party
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Wave
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Truffle Hog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kid Charlemagne
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War on Drugs
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Year of the Dog
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arms Reduction
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The Doggfather
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Solarium
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beyond
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Little Red Hen
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Encryption
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Team America
Sport
The Incredible Walk Yawn Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
The Politics of Dancing 82 Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Block Party 82 Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Third Wave October Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Truffle Hog 82 Main Wall 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Kid Charlemagne 82 Main Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
War on Drugs 82 Main Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Year of the Dog 82 Main Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Arms Reduction 82 Main Wall 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Doggfather 82 Steep Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Solarium 82 Steep Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Beyond 82 Steep Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Little Red Hen 82 Steep Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Encryption 82 Steep Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Team America 82 Steep Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Interesting side story regarding grades at Bolton - Back in 2011 I was at the 82 Crag one day with Alan Blade and a climber I won't name that I knew from Boston was there who climbs a bunch at Rumney. He explained to me that he had read about The Doggfather online (presumably here) and was used to onsighting 12's at Rumney. I asked him if he wanted any beta and he quickly assured me he wouldn't need any. I then proceeded to watch him take about 6 whippers off the end of the techie 5.11+ section just before you get to the no-hands rest (i.e. well before the route crux at the end). This is a tricky section and can feel hard if you don't know what you are doing. When he finally asked me for my beta there he didn't seem to be able to make any use of it and looked at me incredulously as if I was making stuff up. After watching him fall several times I left the scene but with a bit of a sense that indeed Bolton is not Rumney so beware that you will likely be climbing a letter grade or more lower. I bet he probably did send it eventually later on but still interesting to watch.... Mar 10, 2013
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Also worth mentioning that Alan Blade broke a hole on LRH recently (see his comment on the route) which seems noteworthy in terms of its difficulty - I have not been on it since then but I suspect it makes the reachy sidepull move down low harder. Apr 30, 2012
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I have upgraded Encryption to 12d and will take your word for it there however I am keeping Little Red Hen 12d unless I hear a lot more feedback to the contrary which so far I haven't. I feel "Who's Your Daddy" is the benchmark 12c for the area and LRH feels a notch harder to me. I am still mixed on Beyond because it was harder for me to redpoint than the Doggfather which is considered the benchmark 12b for the area - but I could wrong as I tend to be more power than endurance oriented (hence b/c grade). I also feel Arms Reduction should be upgraded - seems like a stretch to call it 11b but I am waiting for more suggestions there. Those are my two cents and with more feedback from people I'll change the grades to match what most people suggest regardless of what I think - please add yours Apr 30, 2012
For the grades at 82 I would suggest (Crusty By Nature .11a, Beyond .12b, Doggfather .12b, Red Hen .12c, Encryption .12d, Team America .12d) I'd say all of these grades are pretty solid. Encryption feels harder to me than Venus in Rumney which SOLID in the .12c grade and Team America felt about as hard and took more tries though I used a bit different beta than others. Red Hen has harder individual moves but has a huge rest on it. I think these grades would hold up at any crag. I'd be curious to see what Travis puts in the new book... Apr 11, 2012

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