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Elevation: 1,284 ft 391 m
GPS: 44.37808, -72.86009
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Shared By: Orphaned User on Apr 17, 2010 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

One of Bolton's finest areas.

The large cliff band about 25 minute walk uphill from the Bolton Quarry (see map). This cliff is home to some of the hardest, most bad-ass sport climbing in the state of Vermont. The 82 Crag has many climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12+ range. I would say it has some of the best 5.11's and 5.12's I have ever been on such as Arms Reduction (11b/c), Afro-Samurai (11d), the Doggfather (12b), Solarium (12b), Encryption (12c/d), Little Red Hen (12d). This crag has it all and the views are fantastic. A nice breeze tends to keep the 82 Crag a little cooler than others in the summer. It's about a 25 minute walk mostly uphill only if you don't get lost on the trails (otherwise could be quite a long hike). Try to check in here or with locals before you go to get some idea of where you are going.

Sub-areas include October Wall, reached during the approach to 82 Crag, and Chapel Crag, just above the Main Face.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the Bolton Quarry Parking lot and follow the WHITE line trail on the map provided (hopefully this will help). The red trail crosses private property.
There is a specific network of trails/logging roads that must be followed and I suggest using a GPS device your first time so you don't get too lost. For the upper part of the crag (i.e. Doggfather, Little Red Hen, Afro Samurai, Encryption) you must climb up a 5.4 choss pile with a fixed rope for about 30 feet to get to the base of it.

You can also follow the directions listed in Tough Schist.

36 Total Climbs

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Location: 82 Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 82 Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 29
● Crimp Chimp
Trad
82 Main Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 44
● The Politics of Dancing
Sport
82 Main Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
● Block Party
Trad 2 pitches
82 Main Wall
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 37
● Truffle Hog
Trad 2 pitches
82 Main Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
● Kid Charlemagne
Sport
82 Main Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
● War on Drugs
Trad
82 Main Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
● Year of the Dog
Trad
82 Main Wall
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
● Arms Reduction
Trad
82 Main Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
● Afro Samurai
Sport
82 Steep Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
● Beyond
Sport
82 Steep Wall
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 21
● The Doggfather
Sport
82 Steep Wall
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
● Solarium
Trad
82 Steep Wall
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
● Little Red Hen
Sport
82 Steep Wall
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
● Encryption
Sport
82 Steep Wall
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
● Firewall
Sport
82 Steep Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Crimp Chimp 82 Main Wall
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
● The Politics of Dancing 82 Main Wall
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
● Block Party 82 Main Wall
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Truffle Hog 82 Main Wall
 37
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Kid Charlemagne 82 Main Wall
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● War on Drugs 82 Main Wall
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Year of the Dog 82 Main Wall
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Arms Reduction 82 Main Wall
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
● Afro Samurai 82 Steep Wall
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Beyond 82 Steep Wall
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● The Doggfather 82 Steep Wall
 21
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
● Solarium 82 Steep Wall
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
● Little Red Hen 82 Steep Wall
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Encryption 82 Steep Wall
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Firewall 82 Steep Wall
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in 82 Crag »

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Updated 10/20/2015 to reflect the new trail. Stay on white.
Updated 10/20/2015 to reflect the new trail. St…
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