Avg: 3 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,290 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Colin R on Apr 17, 2010|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details
Follow the yellow bottle caps and pink flagging to ensure you remain on Crag-VT or Green Crow Logging property and not on private land.
DescriptionThe original rating is 11b which I feel quite sandbagged. I would call it at least 5.11c but will leave it at 11b/c to be fair to the first ascentionist (this route feels as hard as Afro Samurai to me).
To get to the base of the route you will have to do a 5.8/5.9 intro mixed gear/trad route to an anchor (it can technically be done in one long 90+ foot pitch). If you go straight up it is a different route that is 10c (forget the name). So traverse right into the intro slab, clip the first bolt and continue for another 25 feet or so with some thin, sketchy gear in marginal cracks before reaching the next set of bolts. From there you have 5 or 6 more bolts to the anchor (can't remember exactly) and the physical part begins. Crimpy sustained face climbing and a hard boulder problem over a bulge leads to yet more crimpy face climbing and eventually the anchors. Congratulations for reaching the anchor! Enjoy the view....
LocationYou do not have to climb the 5.4 choss pile to get to the start of this route (if you go that far you have gone too far up the trail) but you do have to do a 5.9 mixed bolted/gear face climb to get to the base of it so absolutely bring trad gear (nuts and cams) up to 1.5 inch.
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