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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alden Pellet 2008
Page Views: 1,235 total, 16/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 25, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

A seemingly nebulous face shielded by several pines that yields two pitches of fun, safe, and crimpy face climbing.

Start about 50 to the left of "Politics of Dancing", at a short dirty face with a low bolt. Climb straight up, passing several bolts to the tree and a 2-bolt anchor (5.9, 50 ft.).

Continue up, passing several more bolts, and some balancy face moves to a semi-ledge with an obvious horizontal crack. Place your #3 Camalot, and continue to the anchor.

Rap the route with two 60m ropes or a single 70. Either way, it's 2 rappels.

Location

Left side of the big wall section.

Protection

Bolts with a #3 Camalot near the top of the 2nd pitch. A 70m rope will allow for 2, safe rappels, otherwise, you'll need to down climb (using the tree) to the 1st pitch belay.

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Seth Maciejowski  
  5.9+
Bring a 70m for the rap. It was nice to have on it today. Great pitch! Apr 18, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Climbed this route again today with a 70m cord, and I would say that length rope is recommended for rapping the 2nd pitch of the route safely. Apr 17, 2012
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
 
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
 
I rapped with a 60m and the rope was ~5ft short of the ledge, I was able to reach the bolted anchor and clip into it with a PAS and then just hop down. I would agree that a #3 is optional but I was very glad I brought it as it felt much safer. Apr 15, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.9
Derek Doucet  
  5.9
Sounds like that rope is a bit short. I've rapped it literally dozens of times with various single 60s, and with stretch have always been able to reach with no downclimbing. Again, knot the ends!

In any case, I agree completely that a 70 is certainly a much easier option if you have one.

Even with a slightly short 60, I'd personally not bother bringing a 2nd rope. If concerned about the rap, it's easy to walk over to the Politics of Dancing anchor, rap down to the mid cliff anchor on Crimp Chimp, and then to the ground. But then I'm an inherently lazy person, and hate bringing more stuff than I have to! Jul 31, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Matt and I did this a few months ago with a single 60, and we were forced to down-climb about 6 or 7 feet to the first anchor. Luckily, the pine on the ledge allows for a relatively safe down-climb. Jul 31, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.9
Derek Doucet  
  5.9
A much, much better route that it appears from the ground. The initial "dirty face" actually climbs very nicely, and the upper headwall is clean, sustained and superb: In the running for the nicest rock and moves on the main face, which is saying something.

A #3 camalot or equivalent is helpful but not really necessary. While splitting this in to two pitches is a reasonable option (the belay is on a comfortable ledge), like all the routes on the main face, climbing Block Party as a 175' single pitch is the way to go. Doing so requires ~17 draws, including some shoulder length runners to avoid excessive rope drag.

The route can be descended with a single 60m rope, but the first rap just, and I do mean just barely reaches with a bit of rope stretch. Knot the ends... Jul 29, 2011