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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Derrek Anderson Fall 2010
Page Views: 979 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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11 Opinions

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Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

On the far right end of the big wall section resides "Kid Charlemagne". The route starts with a difficult boulder problem past the first two bolts, then continues past another 6 bolts, several more technical sections, and a fantastic finish through somewhat hollow, but fun flakes/pinches and quartz knobs. A hefty two-bolt rap station awaits you at the top of this pitch.

This technical pitch also gives the climber a more aesthetic option (rather than the scrappy 5.6 to the right) to access one of the best pitches on the big wall section, "War on Drugs".

Location

far right end of the big wall section where the narrow climbers' trail begins to ascend steeply uphill.

Protection

bolts

Photos

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I think this route deserves at least another half star. One of the better 10s in the Bolton area, with a fun flowy sequence with nice exposure before the last bolt.

Also, 10b seems fair. Might be 10a if not for tricky moves off the ground and a difficult second clip. Book doesn't specify, but the 'optional cam placement' at the top would be a finger sized piece. Sep 12, 2017
Kid charlemange is a steely dan tune. Its about Owlsley Stanley, one of the first US born major LSD manufacturers. He also Built most of the sound equiptment for the Grateful Dead and designed the iconic "steal your face" logo. Sep 27, 2011
Derrek Anderson
Albany, NY
  5.10-
Derrek Anderson   Albany, NY
  5.10-
Doucet has the right idea... its all a Royal Scam... 5.7 just to even things out;) Jul 26, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
really, Derek (Anderson)?--5.7+...now I know you're drinking the Kool-Aid, as well! Jul 25, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.10a
Derek Doucet  
  5.10a
Indeed. It's the lead track on the mega classic The Royal Scam. Jun 28, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Isn't Kid Charlemagne a Steely Dan song? Jun 28, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.10a
Derek Doucet  
  5.10a
Yeah, get back on it, Chris. I bet you just missed a hold somewhere. It's still pretty dirty after all. I actually had to argue DA up to .10a when I climbed the route this spring. He was vacillating between .8+ and .9 right after he put it up! Now THAT seemed a bit over the top... Jun 18, 2011
Sorry Chris, I am with Derek on this one. There is no way that thing is even approaching 11a. I even hesitated to go 10a on it as I feel that it is easier than the other 10a's on the cliff. Jun 18, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.10a
Derek Doucet  
  5.10a
I think you must have missed something, Chris! There's a low .10a crux just off the ground, then it's pretty cruiser 5.9ish climbing for a few bolts before another brief crux bulge, then a bit more moderate ground to the anchor. Are you sure you're not referring to the direct start to Arms Reduction? If you do that straight up to the first bolt rather than traversing in, I could believe 5.11. Jun 18, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Really? 10a? Either I've become extreme weak, or you're climbing the wrong route. This thing definitely felt WAY harder than any 10a on the cliff. Am I missing something here, guys, or did I just not drink the Kool-Aid like the rest of you?
Jun 18, 2011
Chris, I am hoping you meant 10a.... Jun 18, 2011