All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > 82 Crag > 82 Steep Wall

The Doggfather

Name: The Doggfather
Rating: 3.7

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in 82 Steep Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Afro Samurai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Beyond S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Codebreaker Variation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Crusty By Nature S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Doggfather, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Encryption S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Enter the Dweezil S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Firewall S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Little Red Hen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Solarium T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Steppin Razor S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Steppin' Razor Direct S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Team America S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

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Type:	Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA:	Travis Peckham
Page Views:	5,723 total · 43/month
Shared By:	Colin R on Apr 17, 2010
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

This route is a true classic and is a must-do for any visiting climber capable of the grade. Begin with a long, pumpy, sequential 5.11+ face climbing section to a sloping rail where there is an awkward no-hands rest using your shoulder blade and smeared feet, use it well. Once you get uncomfortable in the no-hands "rest", best to move on to the crux which is a long V5 boulder problem through a bulge. There is a challenging clip right at the crux section. The final move involves a dyno off a small crimp to a big rail that must be mantled to clip the chains. You might catch some air if you blow it at the top but it's 100% fun and safe.

Location

Follow the trail map for the Bolton area to the 82 crag and use the rope to climb up the chossy 5.5 intro crag to get to the base of the hard routes. The Doggfather is the 4th route from the left or two routes right of the spray-painted "82" sign.