Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
Routes in 82 Main Wall
|Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft|
|Page Views:||247 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Derek Doucet on Jun 13, 2010|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details
Follow the yellow bottle caps and pink flagging to ensure you remain on Crag-VT or Green Crow Logging property and not on private land.
DescriptionClimb the easy slab past 2 bolts to the obvious horizontal break. Surmount the break, then step up and right in to a thin, left angling crack system. This crack is difficult to see from below. Follow the crack up and left past a delicate sequence (5.9-) and make a moderate runout to lower angle rock and more gear. Now step up and right, and either belay at the 2-bolt anchor, or clip it long and continue up and slightly left on to the superb bolted face. Climb this sustained (5.9+) face all the way to the top of the cliff and a second fixed anchor. Done as one lead, this makes for a long and excellent pitch. It's also fun as 2 shorter pitches.
LocationBegin at the obvious, slightly mossy slab just up and right from point where the approach trail meets the cliff.
ProtectionA few very small wires (#4 or 5 RP helpful), and single cams from fingers to tight hands. If climbing the route in one pitch (highly recommended!), 15+ draws and runners are needed. The 5.9+ crux section is very well protected. There is easier (5.9-) climbing protected in part by a tiny wire in schist. It looks as bomber as a tiny nut can, but one never knows...there is also some rather run out easier climbing. Nothing to be overly concerned about for a very solid 5.9 leader, but not a good route to dog one's way up!
- No Photos -