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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 247 total, 3/month
Shared By: Derek Doucet on Jun 13, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

Climb the easy slab past 2 bolts to the obvious horizontal break. Surmount the break, then step up and right in to a thin, left angling crack system. This crack is difficult to see from below. Follow the crack up and left past a delicate sequence (5.9-) and make a moderate runout to lower angle rock and more gear. Now step up and right, and either belay at the 2-bolt anchor, or clip it long and continue up and slightly left on to the superb bolted face. Climb this sustained (5.9+) face all the way to the top of the cliff and a second fixed anchor. Done as one lead, this makes for a long and excellent pitch. It's also fun as 2 shorter pitches.

Location

Begin at the obvious, slightly mossy slab just up and right from point where the approach trail meets the cliff.

Protection

A few very small wires (#4 or 5 RP helpful), and single cams from fingers to tight hands. If climbing the route in one pitch (highly recommended!), 15+ draws and runners are needed. The 5.9+ crux section is very well protected. There is easier (5.9-) climbing protected in part by a tiny wire in schist. It looks as bomber as a tiny nut can, but one never knows...there is also some rather run out easier climbing. Nothing to be overly concerned about for a very solid 5.9 leader, but not a good route to dog one's way up!

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Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.9+ PG13
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.9+ PG13
Great climb with a few small but engaging run outs. Small stopper is bomber, red camelot and a .3 size piece is also very helpful. Sep 11, 2017