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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Access Issue: Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

Some of the best long routes in Bolton. Most routes require a few pieces of gear or a bold head to be lead save for a few all-sport exceptions.

Getting There (Updated Spring 2016)

I recommend bringing a local if it's your first time or following the instruction in the guidebook Tough Schist. This will prevent accidentally ending up on private land.

Hiking time is about 25 minutes for a good hiker knowing the trail:

-Otherwise here is the lengthy but detailed directions as per the 2015 Fall trail day trail that was finalized.

-Begin from the quarry and head past the kiosk toward the upper quarry.
-Continue right around the shoulder of the quarry and take the second left fork with a small yellow sign that says "82/Carcass".
-Continue up steep hiking for 3 or 4 minutes until you are at the top of the quarry at a T- intersection. Turn right for Carcass, left for 82.
-Continue up steeply following yellow trail markers until you reach a flatter logging road with small boulders at the intersection.
-Turn right and continue for 400 feet.
-When you spot the bright orange posted signs, look for an obvious trail on your left marked with pink flagging.
-Continue up this steep trail past a few water trenches until it splits left or right.
-The left passage is blocked by branches, go right for 30 or so feet until the trail is blocked by branches again and a small trail can be found splitting off to the left. If you somehow get to the big downed birch, you went too far.
-Continue up one final hill until the trail evens out and starts clearing into very pretty berry bushes.
-Continue for 5 or so minutes until you hit another logging road. From here the top of the October Wall can already be seen.
-Continue downhill (right) for about 500 feet until you reach a cairn and a trail marked with pink flagging on your left.
-Follow this down and to the base of the cliff where it hits the cliff under the route "Block Party".

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 82 Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Quills
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 15
The Politics of Dancing
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Block Party
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Truffle Hog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 7
War on Drugs
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Kid Charlemagne
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Year of the Dog
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Arms Reduction
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Quills
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Politics of Dancing
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Block Party
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Truffle Hog
 14
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
War on Drugs
 7
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Kid Charlemagne
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Year of the Dog
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Arms Reduction
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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