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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore (May 17, 2017)
Page Views: 101 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on May 17, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

A very worthwhile pitch despite the name; the rock is a bit chossy until the roof but the moves are incredible!

Stem up through the first bolt. Find small but good edges and power up to a tiny hold with high feet before pulling up to better holds and slots to gain a stance below the roof. Clip the first bolt on the roof and gain a shake before firing out the roof on a sloping rail. A few big throws through the lip with absurd feet gains hero jugs and an easy mantle to reach a ring-bolt anchor.

If you blow it at the crux you should know your heel is likely the last thing to come out so flipping upside-down is possible.

Location

Under the enormous roof 40 feet left of the Main Face. Hike toward the steep face and double back to a stance under the roof.

Protection

6 bolts.

The last two bolts have fixed cable draws.

Photos

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