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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 911 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Access Issue: Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route should be seeing more traffic now that a direct start (a la "Kid Charlemagne") is an option. This lengthy pitch ascends the clean, black-streaked, striated wall that continues above "Kid Charlemagne". What a line!!

From the rap anchors of "Kid Charlemagne", traverse right about 10 feet on a foot rail aiming for a nice horizontal that will take a .5 Camalot. Make a couple of slab moves up to a bolt (perhaps back cleaning the .5 after clipping the bolt to reduce drag), then continue straight up passing more bolts, a few opportunities for some decent gear, and a few rest ledges.

Though this route is well protected, expect some halting (read: thoughtful) moves above your protection. Big, clean falls are real possibility if you blow the sequence on several of these sections.

The route tops out the cliff on a clean section of featured rock, offering a nice view of Bolton Valley. Belay off the large, obvious pine about 30 feet from the edge of the cliff.

Location [Suggest Change]

At the far right end of the big wall section, above the anchor for "Kid Charlemagne". One can also gain access to this pitch by climbing a somewhat dirty--but easy--5.6 to the right of "Kid".

Protection [Suggest Change]

Many QDs (a few double length runners to reduce some drag) and a single rack from a green Alien to a .75 Camalot.


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Derek Doucet
Derek Doucet  
A very fun pitch, deserving of the increased popularity the Kid Charlemagne start will no doubt confer. Jun 18, 2011
Corinth, VT
mattseverson   Corinth, VT
It's a rope stretcher to link Kid Charl and War on DRugs with a 60m. As of this writing there is no fixed anchor to belay/rap off at the tree, so bring a long cord if you'd like to get a cliffs edge view of your second. This won't be an issue if splitting the pitches up. Also be aware that, if you do rap WOD, a 60m might not get you to the Kid Charl anchors. I was able to rap, with doubles, from the top of WOD to the ground with no issues. If in doubt, scramble down climber's left ( right if facing the view of Bolton valley) to the ARms REduction anchors and rap to quills, then down. Apr 12, 2017

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