War on Drugs
Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
Routes in 82 Main Wall
|Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft|
|Page Views:||880 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details
Follow the yellow bottle caps and pink flagging to ensure you remain on Crag-VT or Green Crow Logging property and not on private land.
DescriptionThis route should be seeing more traffic now that a direct start (a la "Kid Charlemagne") is an option. This lengthy pitch ascends the clean, black-streaked, striated wall that continues above "Kid Charlemagne". What a line!!
From the rap anchors of "Kid Charlemagne", traverse right about 10 feet on a foot rail aiming for a nice horizontal that will take a .5 Camalot. Make a couple of slab moves up to a bolt (perhaps back cleaning the .5 after clipping the bolt to reduce drag), then continue straight up passing more bolts, a few opportunities for some decent gear, and a few rest ledges.
Though this route is well protected, expect some halting (read: thoughtful) moves above your protection. Big, clean falls are real possibility if you blow the sequence on several of these sections.
The route tops out the cliff on a clean section of featured rock, offering a nice view of Bolton Valley. Belay off the large, obvious pine about 30 feet from the edge of the cliff.
LocationAt the far right end of the big wall section, above the anchor for "Kid Charlemagne". One can also gain access to this pitch by climbing a somewhat dirty--but easy--5.6 to the right of "Kid".
- No Photos -