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War on Drugs

5.10b, Trad, 140 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: Alden Pellet
Vermont > Bolton Area > 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall
Access Issue: Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

This route should be seeing more traffic now that a direct start (a la "Kid Charlemagne") is an option. This lengthy pitch ascends the clean, black-streaked, striated wall that continues above "Kid Charlemagne". What a line!!

From the rap anchors of "Kid Charlemagne", traverse right about 10 feet on a foot rail aiming for a nice horizontal that will take a .5 Camalot. Make a couple of slab moves up to a bolt (perhaps back cleaning the .5 after clipping the bolt to reduce drag), then continue straight up passing more bolts, a few opportunities for some decent gear, and a few rest ledges.

Though this route is well protected, expect some halting (read: thoughtful) moves above your protection. Big, clean falls are real possibility if you blow the sequence on several of these sections.

The route tops out the cliff on a clean section of featured rock, offering a nice view of Bolton Valley. Belay off the large, obvious pine about 30 feet from the edge of the cliff.

Location

At the far right end of the big wall section, above the anchor for "Kid Charlemagne". One can also gain access to this pitch by climbing a somewhat dirty--but easy--5.6 to the right of "Kid".

Protection

Many QDs (a few double length runners to reduce some drag) and a single rack from a green Alien to a .75 Camalot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek Doucet
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A very fun pitch, deserving of the increased popularity the Kid Charlemagne start will no doubt confer. Jun 18, 2011
mattseverson
Corinth, VT
[Hide Comment] It's a rope stretcher to link Kid Charl and War on DRugs with a 60m. As of this writing there is no fixed anchor to belay/rap off at the tree, so bring a long cord if you'd like to get a cliffs edge view of your second. This won't be an issue if splitting the pitches up. Also be aware that, if you do rap WOD, a 60m might not get you to the Kid Charl anchors. I was able to rap, with doubles, from the top of WOD to the ground with no issues. If in doubt, scramble down climber's left ( right if facing the view of Bolton valley) to the ARms REduction anchors and rap to quills, then down. Apr 12, 2017