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Routes in 82 Main Wall

Arms Reduction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimp Chimp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truffle Hog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,131 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Trail leads between parcels of private land. Details

Description

Yet another fine pitch of climbing on the beautiful big wall section of the 82.

"Year of the Dog" used to be an alternate second pitch to "Crimp Chimp" but now has it's own first pitch. One of the best climbs in Bolton.

P1. Start a few yards right of Crimp Chimp on a 5.9 slab leading to fun face climbing and an anchor just right of Crimp Chimp.

P2. Excellent. Tricky balance and great crimps all the way to the top, ending in a broad corner just left of a steeper face.

Location

20 feet right of "Crimp Chimp."

Protection

Many QDs and a single rack (including some wires) to a #1 Camalot.

Photos

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Derek Doucet
  5.10b/c
Derek Doucet  
  5.10b/c
The climbing to reach the first anchors is .9+ish, and the crux is a one move wonder. The rest of the climbing is easier, but very worthwhile. There is a brief section of PG/PG13 5.7-5.8 climbing halfway to the midpoint rap anchor, by the way. Jun 18, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Matt, how difficult would you say the independent first pitch to this route is? Jun 18, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.10b/c
Derek Doucet  
  5.10b/c
Actually, like all of the main face routes, YOD is an excellent, long single pitch with a convenient mid point rap anchor to facilitate a single rope rap descent. Why break these routes in to two pitches? Just sayin'! Jun 18, 2011
Matt Salter
  5.10d
Matt Salter  
  5.10d
Excellent independent line. It actually has it's own first pitch, independent of Crimp Chimp:

Start 10 feet right of Crimp Chimp and follow mixed bolts and gear in a direct manner, past a flake and up a thin, steep slab. For a most excellent time, link the two pitches together into one exceptional 140 foot pitch to the top.

Rack: A handful of SLCD's from yellow TCU up to red Camelot, along with a few medium/large stoppers

Descent: 2 one rope rappels Jun 18, 2011