Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
Routes in 82 Steep Wall
|Afro Samurai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Beyond S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Crusty By Nature S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Doggfather, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Encryption S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Enter the Dweezil S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Little Red Hen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Solarium T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Steppin Razor S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Team America S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Page Views:||1,082 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Colin R on Oct 23, 2011|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
DescriptionThis route sits just left of the Doggfather and yet offers a very different style of climbing. Whereas the Doggfather requires power and control with a V5 crux, Beyond is just sustained crimping with no individual move harder than V3 or V4 but lots of them, one after the other until you are spent. Begin off the ground and do a few techie V1/V2 crimp moves to gain a system of interconnecting rails and flat holds veering slightly left until you have an ok rest. Rest up here, clip and move back right through a reachy sidepull then fire through a wild series of sustained crimps clipping periodically as you go. Eventually you get to a big jug, then a small roof at which point you can rest pretty good before doing a final V2- move just below the chains. Your arms should feel like silly putty on the RP burn.
By the way, at the risk of stirring up yet more grade controversy at this crag/area, I should mention that this route was originally graded 12a by Dave Vuono but I haven't spoken to anyone other than Dave who thinks this is 12a (everyone seems to think it is harder). Personally I feel its slightly harder than the Doggfather but endurace isn't my style so I could be wrong there. I feel 12b/c is fair value but I am open to other suggestions.
Hints: Right off the ground use the microcrack for your left hand only, right hand on rails and crimps. I've seen people try to go both hands straight up the micro-crack feature and ignore the large rail and features to its right. Also up high after you pull over the small roofy feature into the pod, you can get a no-hands rest if you smear your shoulder into the wall and place your feet to the left before firing the last couple 5.10+/V2- moves before the anchor (that is if the huge jugs aren't enough for you).
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