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Routes in 82 Steep Wall

Afro Samurai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Beyond S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crusty By Nature S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doggfather, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Encryption S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enter the Dweezil S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Little Red Hen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solarium T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steppin Razor S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Team America S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Dave Vuono
Page Views: 1,162 total · 14/month
Shared By: Colin R on Oct 23, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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This route sits just left of the Doggfather and yet offers a very different style of climbing. Whereas the Doggfather requires power and control with a V5 crux, Beyond is just sustained crimping with no individual move harder than V3 or V4 but lots of them, one after the other until you are spent. Begin off the ground and do a few techie V1/V2 crimp moves to gain a system of interconnecting rails and flat holds veering slightly left until you have an ok rest. Rest up here, clip and move back right through a reachy sidepull then fire through a wild series of sustained crimps clipping periodically as you go. Eventually you get to a big jug, then a small roof at which point you can rest pretty good before doing a final V2- move just below the chains. Your arms should feel like silly putty on the RP burn.

By the way, at the risk of stirring up yet more grade controversy at this crag/area, I should mention that this route was originally graded 12a by Dave Vuono but I haven't spoken to anyone other than Dave who thinks this is 12a (everyone seems to think it is harder). Personally I feel its slightly harder than the Doggfather but endurace isn't my style so I could be wrong there. I feel 12b/c is fair value but I am open to other suggestions.

Hints: Right off the ground use the microcrack for your left hand only, right hand on rails and crimps. I've seen people try to go both hands straight up the micro-crack feature and ignore the large rail and features to its right. Also up high after you pull over the small roofy feature into the pod, you can get a no-hands rest if you smear your shoulder into the wall and place your feet to the left before firing the last couple 5.10+/V2- moves before the anchor (that is if the huge jugs aren't enough for you).


Just left of the Doggfather.




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Derek Doucet
Derek Doucet  
I'd call it .10+ with that (^) much beta...

Just kidding. Couldn't help myself. Oct 26, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
lol, no worries - I know I am kind of spilling the beans here especially for those who wish to onsight it without beta, but I really dig this route and enjoy describing the movement. I spent about 5 or 6 weekends over a year working on the route and wasted a good 2 or 3 of them using crappy beta. The route can be made much harder by veering off sequence in a couple key spots particularly just after the rest. Oct 26, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I've nudged the grade back to 12b - seems to be what people are saying. May 8, 2012
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Derek, do you feel Beyond is harder or easier than "Who' your Daddy?" which you've also called 12a? Also, you've rated the Doggfather 12b which is to say harder than what you rated Beyond or WYD. If anything the Doggfather is the easiest of the three imho. Just my 2 cents.... Aug 11, 2013
Derek Doucet
Derek Doucet  
Hey Colin,

I haven't been on any of them recently, but as I recall, Beyond and WYD are so different in style that comparing them is pretty difficult.

Regarding WYD vs.the Doggfather, yes, I think the Doggfather is significantly harder than WYD. IMO, considered as an isolated boulder problem, the Doggfather crux is much more difficult than anything on WYD. It involves more moves and is much more powerful. This perspective could well be because of my personal weaknesses and strengths of course. The WYD crux rewards subtle body positioning and crafty technique, while the Doggfather crux is a straightforward power problem. As I'm a lousy power climber, but do feel like I can finesse my way through lots of things, WYD certainly plays more to my strengths.


Derek Aug 12, 2013
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Thanks for your feedback Derek.

The more I climb the more I recognize the non-linear nature of the sport and what makes something "difficult". I probably fall into the opposite end of the spectrum from you given my background/foundation in bouldering. The Doggfather allows me a near no-hands rest before what I would call a V5 boulder problem which I will take any day. Beyond, while having no move harder than say V3 or V4 also has a much more sustained crux with what I would only describe as a crappy rest just prior. I found it extremely pumpy and I would likely have rated it 12c if it were something I put up (fully expecting a VT downgrade). Having moved to Canada I can say that many of the crags I've climbed at up here, while by no means would I describe them as soft, are not nearly as difficult as similarly rated routes in VT or the Daks. Last year at Lion's Head I sent two 12c's in the same weekend - no way that would ever happen at Bolton. Hope you are enjoying the summer...


Colin Aug 13, 2013

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