Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Dave Vuono, Sept 2007
Page Views: 1,872 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Apr 17, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A 4-star route with technical, burly, and exciting climbing, and outstanding variety of movement. Start in the obvious flare and carefully make insecure moves with gear that's probably good enough to the first overlap and a thankfully secure clip for the first bolt. It's best not to fall before this. Technical and powerful climbing past 3 more bolts leads to the second, and larger, overlap. Decipher a puzzling sequence to gain a tantalizingly close finger crack, then crank through sinker locks to a rest. Plug in some good though fiddly gear, take a deep breath, and launch in to a fantastic and committing sequence (potential air time here) as the angle steepens. More fiddly but solid gear (take the time to place it well...tick...tick...tick...) and a spectacular pull over the final roof provide a fitting finish. 

Location Suggest change

Left of Little Red Hen, the obvious zigzag crack.

Protection Suggest change

4 Bolts, cams from 0.5 to 2 inches (red Alien and Red Mastercam helpful ), and large wires.


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