Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Dave Vuono, Sept 2007
Page Views: 1,465 total · 11/month
Shared By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

A 4-star route with technical, burly, and exciting climbing, and outstanding variety of movement. Start in the obvious flare and carefully make insecure moves with gear that's probably good enough to the first overlap and a thankfully secure clip for the first bolt. It's best not to fall before this. Technical and powerful climbing past 3 more bolts leads to the second, and larger, overlap. Decipher a puzzling sequence to gain a tantalizingly close finger crack, then crank through sinker locks to a rest. Plug in some good though fiddly gear, take a deep breath, and launch in to a fantastic and committing sequence (potential air time here) as the angle steepens. More fiddly but solid gear (take the time to place it well...tick...tick...tick...) and a spectacular pull over the final roof provide a fitting finish. 

Location

Left of Little Red Hen, the obvious zigzag crack.

Protection

4 Bolts, cams from 0.5 to 2 inches (red Alien and Red Mastercam helpful ), and large wires.

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