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Routes in 82 Steep Wall

Afro Samurai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Beyond S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crusty By Nature S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doggfather, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Encryption S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enter the Dweezil S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Little Red Hen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solarium T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steppin Razor S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Team America S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rory Burke 2008
Page Views: 220 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 25, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A nice warm-up for the harder routes on the 5.12 Wall

Crusty climbs the line of bolts through the "82" on the left side of the face. Carefully climb up to reach the first bolt, then make several tough moves through the 2nd and 3rd bolt (Clipping the 3rd bolt is somewhat challenging).

Continue up past another bolt, then up the increasingly easier face above.

Location

The line of bolts climbing through the "82 on the far left end of the 5.12 Wall.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10+
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10+
Perhaps a better way to use this as a warm-up is to link into Afro Samurai at the bulge. It's an easy traverse across and gives you some steep jugs to finish on which rounds out the thinner section below. A double shoulder sling is useful to clip the bolt on Crusty long to protect the traverse over. Sep 14, 2016
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.11a
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.11a
Not really the best warm up for the rest of the wall but I do it anyways - one hard V3 section and the rest is piss easy.

Agreed w/ Seth on the third clip. Apr 2, 2013
Seth Maciejowski
  5.11a
Seth Maciejowski  
  5.11a
Don't blow the third clip! It's hard and a fall can be potentially damaging! Apr 17, 2012