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Routes in 82 Steep Wall

Afro Samurai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Beyond S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crusty By Nature S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doggfather, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Encryption S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enter the Dweezil S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Firewall S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Red Hen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solarium T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steppin Razor S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Team America S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Peter Kamitses
Page Views: 1,258 total · 12/month
Shared By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Bolton's first 5.13 and a fine one indeed. I don't even know if it's been repeated since Peter did it (probably has but I don't know for sure).

Work up just right of the water-worn black rock through a series of sharp incut crimps. At the 4th bolt, step right and power up through an incredible V6 boulder problem. A few hard deadpoints gains a stance at the left-rising traverse crack. Clip bolt 7 and traverse left with no good feet until directly below a bulge... pull straight up through the awesome redpoint crux to better holds and a lower-off anchor.

Steppin' Razor Direct 5.14a: After pulling the V6 crux at the 5th bolt, move left and power through small edges and crimps. Regain the original route below the bulge, clipping the left bolt.

Location

Just right of the zig-zagging crack of Solarium

Protection

Bolts. In the traverse at the top, only clip the first bolt on the traverse. The second one is for Dweezil/Direct.

Photos

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Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
Got on this yesterday and while it is sharp, the sequences and moves are as good as anything else on the steep wall. Sep 25, 2018

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