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Routes in Lower West Bolton

A Major T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Minor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A-Sharp T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dead Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dogzilla T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tea in the Sahara T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jamieson, Hassol, 1990
Page Views: 4,692 total, 39/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 28, 2007
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

On the right side of the middle section of the cliff, is this diamond-in-the-rough.

Locate the ramp-like feature roughly 20 feet off the ground with a blocky--usually wet--start. Gain the ramp and make some tedious, and slippery moves up to the small roof. Place some gear, move up over the small overhang using some finger holds to a stance that forces you move up through additional finger moves with slippery feet. This yields a surprisingly fun finger crack that takes you to the top.

Location

On the right side of the middle section of the cliff.

Protection

A nice variety of gear with some doubles in the small-ish size. Also, a good assortment of nuts is helpful. A 60 meter rope will allow you to lead the route and belay from the top; however, you CANNOT toprope it with a 60m.

Photos

Still lots of fun. Overlap felt spicy, with marginal .75 and 1" horizontal cams equalized. Maybe a tricam would work better.

This thing eats nuts. Aug 1, 2016
TSluiter
Holland, VT
  5.8 PG13
TSluiter   Holland, VT
  5.8 PG13
Ultra fun route! one of, if not the best moderate I've climbed in VT. Jul 11, 2015
Favorite 5.8 in Vermont thus far. Amazing. May 24, 2013
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
Varied, exciting, long, and just fun. Don't miss the sneaky nut placement up higher on the right when you start ascending the ramp. Apr 24, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.8 PG13
Derek Doucet  
  5.8 PG13
LOL. Just read Chris's description in more detail. I feel the "tedious, slippery moves" up the ramp are some of the coolest on the route. Different strokes, I guess!

Thanks for the heads up about the pin (which I placed in about 1997, I think), Andrea. Without it, the crux overlap will be a fairly exciting lead at the grade. It's for the best that it's gone, though. The lower edge of the crack it was in has loosened considerably over the years, and has started to sound quite hollow. It was almost certainly rusty junk after 15 years in the Vermont elements anyway. Apr 22, 2012
Seth Maciejowski  
  5.8
Great pitch! I never tire of it. Good interesting moves throughout. I agree with Derek. Best pitch at lwb. Apr 22, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Thanks, Andrea. The change has been made! Mar 18, 2012
  • *the pin is no longer on the route!
Mar 12, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
I believe there is a name for when you get a cam stuck and someone else gets it out: BOOTY!

Just sayin... Jul 1, 2011
This is a great climb.

I got a cam stuck at the very bottom of this route today. I'd like it back, so if you can manage to get it out please contact me. Thanks! May 12, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.8 PG13
Derek Doucet  
  5.8 PG13
Best route at Lower West? Probably so. Apr 18, 2011
Dan Smith  
 
This is a really great route. The gear is real solid, but watch for a wet start. An alternate start is to start on the bolted route to the left and after 4 bolts traverse right into HMT (about 5.10a). Aug 14, 2008