Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jamieson, Hassol, 1990
Page Views: 5,293 total · 39/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 28, 2007
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route

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On the right side of the middle section of the cliff, is this diamond-in-the-rough.

Locate the ramp-like feature roughly 20 feet off the ground with a blocky--usually wet--start. Gain the ramp and make some tedious, and slippery moves up to the small roof. Place some gear, move up over the small overhang using some finger holds to a stance that forces you move up through additional finger moves with slippery feet. This yields a surprisingly fun finger crack that takes you to the top.


On the right side of the middle section of the cliff.


A nice variety of gear with some doubles in the small-ish size. Also, a good assortment of nuts is helpful. A 60 meter rope will allow you to lead the route and belay from the top; however, you CANNOT toprope it with a 60m.


Dan Smith  
This is a really great route. The gear is real solid, but watch for a wet start. An alternate start is to start on the bolted route to the left and after 4 bolts traverse right into HMT (about 5.10a). Aug 14, 2008
Derek Doucet
  5.8 PG13
Derek Doucet  
  5.8 PG13
Best route at Lower West? Probably so. Apr 18, 2011
This is a great climb.

I got a cam stuck at the very bottom of this route today. I'd like it back, so if you can manage to get it out please contact me. Thanks! May 12, 2011
twellman   Cambridge
I believe there is a name for when you get a cam stuck and someone else gets it out: BOOTY!

Just sayin... Jul 1, 2011
  • *the pin is no longer on the route!
Mar 12, 2012
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Thanks, Andrea. The change has been made! Mar 18, 2012
Seth Maciejowski  
Great pitch! I never tire of it. Good interesting moves throughout. I agree with Derek. Best pitch at lwb. Apr 22, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.8 PG13
Derek Doucet  
  5.8 PG13
LOL. Just read Chris's description in more detail. I feel the "tedious, slippery moves" up the ramp are some of the coolest on the route. Different strokes, I guess!

Thanks for the heads up about the pin (which I placed in about 1997, I think), Andrea. Without it, the crux overlap will be a fairly exciting lead at the grade. It's for the best that it's gone, though. The lower edge of the crack it was in has loosened considerably over the years, and has started to sound quite hollow. It was almost certainly rusty junk after 15 years in the Vermont elements anyway. Apr 22, 2012
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
Varied, exciting, long, and just fun. Don't miss the sneaky nut placement up higher on the right when you start ascending the ramp. Apr 24, 2012
Favorite 5.8 in Vermont thus far. Amazing. May 24, 2013
Holland, VT
  5.8 PG13
TSluiter   Holland, VT
  5.8 PG13
Ultra fun route! one of, if not the best moderate I've climbed in VT. Jul 11, 2015
Still lots of fun. Overlap felt spicy, with marginal .75 and 1" horizontal cams equalized. Maybe a tricam would work better.

This thing eats nuts. Aug 1, 2016