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Routes in Lower West Bolton

A Major T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Minor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A-Sharp T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dead Babies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dogzilla T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gates of Eden T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hailstorm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hush, Mama Thrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In the Pines T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say Goodnight Dick T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Steel Feathers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sticks and Stones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tea in the Sahara T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Good-Bye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's up, doc? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Jamieson, Anstatt, Joel Harris 10/8/87
Page Views: 1,274 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Oct 12, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Climb a blocky dihedral to a ledge. Then continue up either on the slab face on your left or using the flake on your right.


Straightforward and fun.

Location

One of the first routes off the trail, head left and you'll find it.

Protection

trad.

Photos

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
The block Billy refers to is no longer present. It took some persuading with a pry bar but most of it came out relatively easily. There is still one piece about the size of a small book that is loose, but it's currently pinned in there pretty well. As on any route, use good judgement and analyze features before committing your full body weight to them. Oct 12, 2017
Good Warm up climb, Top is definatly higher than 5.6 as mentioned, overall quite fun.
Warning: large baby sized rock very loose on right face about 4-5 feet under the ledge, makes a very nice hand/ foot hold but is going to come down any day now, Have fun, be Safe. Oct 8, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
 
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
 
The 5.8 finish was great, though a bit awkward at first. After you look for all those hidden holds one would hope was there, shake off the pump and just use what is available. If it wasn't for the muddy root start, I would give it 3 stars. Jul 23, 2017
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
The anchor is now a glue-in inline chainset up and right of where the old anchor used to be. May 27, 2017
TSluiter
Holland, VT
 
TSluiter   Holland, VT
 
The first section is straightfoward at 5.6, easy to protect.

Once you gain the ledge, the off-width piece might go at 5.8/9, it takes a little bit of gusto but it's a good layback.

The variation on the right side of the wall would keep it at 5.6 but is not really much fun.

2 bolts (no rap rings) at the top of the off-width piece. May 14, 2015
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
 
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
 
Yeah, I think that's it. I got the name from the old climbing magazine topo.

Nov 8, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
Are you referring to the corner left of the "A-Crack" formation? If so, this is a fun, little outing with a thoughtful offwidth "move" at near the top. A #4 Camalot helps keep you off the ledge if you happen to fall. Oct 12, 2011